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Travel dispatches from a shrinking planet

Travel dispatches from a shrinking planet

RECENT BOOKS
4.18.08

‘The Worst Guidebook Writer Ever’?

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4.9.08

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2.29.08

‘Things Fall Apart’: 50 Years Later

For many, Chinua Achebe’s classic novel serves as an introduction to Africa. But Frank Bures writes that the place it depicts is now hard to recognize. 

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Inside Slum Tourism

With mixed feelings, Rob Verger recently signed on for a tour of Rio de Janeiro’s favelas. He looks back on the experience—and the photos he was allowed to take.


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Break Bread and Brie in France

Great cheese abounds in the land of Gaul, but dig in and you risk committing any number of faux pas. Terry Ward explains how to partake of the nation’s famed fromage with savoir faire.

THE LIST
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10 Wanderlust-Inducing Summer Concerts

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Bryan Mealer: ‘War and Deliverance in Congo’

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Some bureaucrats joke that they would never claim expertise about countries they had not at least flown over. In an excerpt from his new book, Parag Khanna argues that real global understanding can only come from serious travel.

BOOKS
2.1.07

‘Stalking the Wild Dik-Dik’: Going Solo Through Africa

From south to north, Marie Javins journeyed alone across the continent. Frank Bures reviews her chronicle of the trip and finds the author a likable travel companion.

imageFor some reason, not many American travelers—at least those not on expensive wildebeest treks or endangered species trophy hunts—go to Africa. Many go to Asia. Most go to Europe. And quite a few head south through the Americas. But American budget travelers tend to avoid Africa.

So Marie Javins didn’t quite know what to expect when she started her journey from south to north, a trip she recounts in her book, Stalking the Wild Dik-Dik: One Woman’s Solo Misadventures Across Africa. “I hadn’t expected to love Africa,” she writes, “and it caught me by surprise. Africa had just been a place on my to do list.”

Javins arrived in Cape Town on a ship as part of an epic trip she was chronicling on her Web site, which she launched in a bid to escape her workaday life as a freelance comic book writer. But the “obligatory” African leg of her journey ended up being the most important one.

From Cape Town, Javins headed to Namibia, known to most Americans only as the birthplace of Angelina and Brad’s offspring. But it also has massive and swallowing parks; beautiful, quasi-Martian deserts; lots of wildlife; potable water; and a nice little backpacking circuit. She then caught a bus north across the continent to the Zambezi, where she and other travelers camped next to the river along with crocs and hippos. From there, she took a train to Tanzania, before catching an overland truck north to Kenya, where she is awoken one night by a wild dik-dik—a tiny African antelope. She continued on to Ethiopia, Sudan and Egypt.

THREE TRAVEL BOOKS

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We asked “Stalking the Wild Dik-Dik” author Marie Javins to share three of her favorite travel books. Here’s what she told us.

Along the way, Javins also sees mountain gorillas in Uganda, giraffes and lions on the savanna, blue oceans in Zanzibar and ancient ruins in Ethiopia. There are the inevitable crammed buses, tireless hustlers, beggars and more beggars, friendly strangers and road accidents. It’s all fun and familiar to anyone who has traveled around the continent, and Javins recounts it all in a lively, easy-to-read style as she skims across Africa.

At times, though, that skimming can get a little tiresome, as she muses over ethical and cultural issues, like whether to give pens to begging kids. Once, for example, she hears Kenyan rap and writes, “The African rap sounded unsophisticated to my ears. How funny that the African influence on American pop culture has come full circle to where American culture was as influential on Africa as Africa had been, in turn, on America.” (Italics hers). Things seldom get deeper than that. Maybe we don’t want them to.

Yet even if “Chasing the Wild Dik Dik” is no Dark Star Safari, and Javins is no Paul Theroux, there is something alluring about this breezy book, which is mostly a pleasure to read. Javins is a likable travel companion for such a long and hard trip, and reading her account almost feels like being out there, on the road, trying to deal with the daily logistics of travel, and the days when a tidy bathroom, clean sheets and a good mosquito net are the only requirements for extreme happiness. And when it’s all over, maybe there is one small thing to be learned.

“If there was one simple lesson I had taken from my yearlong, ground-level journey around the world,” writes Javins, “it was that the vast majority of people are friendly.”

* * * * * *

Frank Bures is the books editor of World Hum.


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