Love and Marriage on the Shatabdi Express

Travel Stories: Eva Holland hoped for a romantic boy-meets-girl story from the woman on the Indian train. She didn't get one.

07.27.09 | 11:19 AM ET

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It was still dark when I boarded the train to Kalka. I chose my seat and heaved my backpack onto the rack, still in the same sleepy haze that had followed me from a seedy Paharganj hotel to the New Delhi station. Then I passed out with my face against the window; exhaustion had been a running theme of my three weeks in India.

I opened my eyes when the train started moving and watched as Delhi slid by, the train picking up speed as the first light of the new day touched the city. The sidewalk sleepers were stirring. The dust of the city mingled with the dust of the train’s passage, and gradually, the grimy, tangled streets widened into the flat plains of Haryana.

Hours passed, and I woke again. There was a 30-something woman next to me, Indian, wearing a bright blue, school-teacher pant suit. In all my train rides so far, she was the first Indian woman I’d seen traveling solo; the first who wasn’t dressed in traditional clothing, and herding children around the train.

She was also the first to speak to me.

“Where are you from?” she asked, and then, after my reply: “Oh, I’m Canadian, too.”

She lived in Calgary with her husband and two children. She had a master’s in physics engineering, a career and a big house in the suburbs. She’d left India 16 years earlier, with her Canadian husband, and was on her way back to visit family for the first time since.

Outside the window, the flat, dusty fields rushed by, baking under the unrelenting July sun. I asked, “How did you and your husband meet?”

My seatmate smiled cynically, knowingly. If I’d been hoping for a sweeping tale of foreigner-woos-local-girl romance, I was about to be disappointed.

Her husband, the Canadian-born child of Indian immigrants, had returned to the Punjab to find a wife.

“It was an arranged marriage,” she said. Then waited, eyebrow raised.

I blinked and shifted in my seat. I knew about arranged marriages, of course—at some point, I’d read a wrenching young adult novel on the subject, assigned, I’m sure, by a well-meaning teacher. Look how some women live, that book had whispered. You don’t know how lucky you are.

This woman matched none of the characters in that narrative. Arranged marriage, as I imagined it, meant dusty bare feet, youth taken too soon, bearded menfolk around the fire trading women like cattle or cattle like women. It had nothing to do with pant suits, or prairie suburbs, or the overflowing self-possession of my seatmate.

Maybe it was that self-possession, or the sense that she was expecting—even hoping for—a shocked reaction, that let me say: “What was that like?”

“I’m very grateful to my parents,” she said. “It’s the easiest way.”

Did I look skeptical, condescending? Or just confused?

She carried on, holding eye contact with me as she spoke. “The divorce rate now is what, fifty, sixty percent?”

I nodded.

“So, when you consider the unlikelihood of finding ‘happiness’ anyway—why not leave it up to chance? Right? Or make it someone else’s responsibility? An arranged marriage is just as likely to be a happy one as the other sort, you know. Maybe even more so, since it doesn’t have all the baggage of hope. Of expectations that are virtually guaranteed to expire unfulfilled.”

The speech was practiced, provocative—and shockingly seductive. I looked away and out the window to gather my thoughts. The monsoon was past due this year, and the sun-bleached fields were the same color as the Rajasthani desert I’d rolled through on a similar train a few days before. On that ride, though, the Indian women on the train had ignored me even more assiduously than the men, and all of my assumptions about patriarchy and female passivity had remained unchallenged.

I thought about the shelves upon shelves of relationship advice and self-help books in bookstores back home. “Men Are From Mars, Women Are From Venus”; “He’s Just Not That Into You”; “The Rules.” Could there be another, simpler philosophy to live by? “There Is No Such Thing As True Love: Managing Your Expectations,” or “You’ll Never Be Happy Anyway, So Why Bother Trying?”

The sheer pessimism of the idea was darkly compelling, like that quiet urge, when you stare down at Niagara Falls, to fling yourself over the edge and ride the water, adrenaline and fate to some sort of conclusion.

I glanced back at my seatmate, who shrugged at all my unasked questions. She paused, then tried again to explain.

“I love my home,” she said, “and I love my children. My husband and I? We’ve learned to work around each other.”

Heady stuff for a 22-year-old fresh off a break-up with the Long-Term College Boyfriend. And even more so for someone without a stable marriage to admire among an entire collection of grandparents, aunts and uncles, someone rapidly approaching the age at which her father got his first—first!—divorce.

I found myself nodding and saying: “That ... makes a lot of sense.”

We rode in silence until I gave in to sleep again. When I woke up we were in Kalka, my stomach was growling for a meal, and my seatmate was gone.

I headed out into the station, found the platform for the little toy train that would haul me the remaining miles through the Himalayan foothills to Shimla, and gnawed on a granola bar while I waited. I tried to shake off the gloomy fatalism that had gripped me since the conversation with my seatmate. I tried to understand why I found that fatalism so comforting.

I was still grappling with the implications of the conversation when I boarded the train to Shimla. I felt guilty about my unexpected moment of agreement with the woman, and not only out of a vague sense of feminist betrayal. If there’s anything more cliché in the travel hot spots of the developing world than the smugly indignant tourist, high up on her culturally superior horse, I thought, it’s the fawning tourist with the grotesque admiration for the “simplicity” of the lives she sees around her. I didn’t want to pity my seatmate for her arranged marriage—but I didn’t want to envy her, either.

Soon I felt the tug of the train pulling out of the station, and we started our steep, winding journey into the hills.


Eva Holland is co-editor of World Hum. She is a former associate editor at Up Here and Up Here Business magazines, and a contributor to Vela. She's based in Canada's Yukon territory.


26 Comments for Love and Marriage on the Shatabdi Express

Hal Amen 07.27.09 | 12:57 PM ET

Eva, your tweet said you’ve been sitting on this story for 5 years? I think that must be the way to go. It came out beautifully.

Tim Patterson 07.27.09 | 1:42 PM ET

“I love my home,” she said, “and I love my children. My husband and I? We’ve learned to work around each other.”

What a powerful line.  Great writing, Eva!

Sarah Menkedick 07.27.09 | 1:49 PM ET

I can see why you’ve wrestled with this and kept at it.  You did a really wonderful job of dealing with a super-complex theme—the urge of the traveler to both get past his/her assumptions and yet avoid embracing their opposites unthinkingly—in a very clear and compelling way.  This is one of the best essays I’ve read in awhile!  It inspires me to start grappling with the piles of notes I’ve accumulated and haven’t yet dealt with.  Really nice job, Eva.

Lindsey 07.27.09 | 1:59 PM ET

Never understood the whole arranged marriage thing either. Yet last summer I was courted by a man from Mumbai attempting to convince me I needed a man in my life. He was skipping the whole “getting to know each other part ” Just wanted to marry me!

Needless to say he made a call home, is married now. But tells me to be his second “good women”

That’s just a whole nother can of worms!

Ian 07.27.09 | 2:29 PM ET

Was just reading Osho last night, and he brought up the subject of arranged marriage.  He said this type of relationship is not about love - it’s about keeping families together.  Romantic love, as packaged to us in the “West,” also has very little to do with actual love.  It is a fantasy, a mix of lust and longing. 

If these are the only choices, than arranged marriage does seem like a nice way to avoid facing a broken heart.  I can’t help but pity the person who gives up without even trying…

Grizzly Bear Mom 07.27.09 | 3:22 PM ET

As a person successful in most categories other than romantic love, I look back on who my parents wisdom would have chosen for me.  Without my foolish passion to color the choice, I would have married farmer Cliff.  Now I would be a millionaries living on a farm in PA with a bunch of kids.  I would be happy.  I would have missed the career success, world travel, etc, but I would have missed the associated sorrows too. 

As for the divorce rate, 50% of marriage end legally.  Probably another 25% end emotionally without legal paperwork.  I don’t see South Asian or Middle Eastern parents as shoving their daughter off on some rich merchant, I see them as ensuring she and her children will not go hungry, which is a real fear in these areas; and that she will have someone compatible with her values, economic status, educaiton and religon.  Think back on who your parents would have picked for you?  Were they on the money?  I know my famliy is in agreement on which relationships we wish our for our nieces and nephews to persue and curtail.

Esha Samajpati 07.27.09 | 4:42 PM ET

Hi Eva,

You have nicely put together some of our everyday thoughts about love and relationship. In fact, I found your article to be quite thought-provoking. Having been born and raised in India, I find some parts very clichéd and not entirely true.

Most of my family and friends have had love marriages. The whole idea of an arranged marriage is restricted to a much older generation, people who got married in the 40’s and 50’s. Nowadays, it is prevalent in rural areas, not the cities.

Also, I can’t agree with you when you say “In all my train rides so far, she was the first Indian woman I’d seen traveling solo; the first who wasn’t dressed in traditional clothing, and herding children around the train.”

I know plenty of Indian women who travel solo, mostly for work and they are not always herding children.

I am sorry to say that the India you have depicted is not the India I know.

Christine 07.27.09 | 5:56 PM ET

Eva, not to shock your feminist mentalities by making this comparison, but I had a vague recollection of some of Hemingway’s short stories when I read this.

In other words, even though he could be quite the misogynist, he wrote beautifully, and so did you. I felt your discomfort and questions as if they were my own.

Paul Sullivan 07.27.09 | 6:31 PM ET

“the overflowing self-possession of my seatmate”

“The sheer pessimism of the idea was darkly compelling”

“I didn’t want to pity my seatmate for her arranged marriage—but I didn’t want to envy her, either. “

Great writing Eva. Wonderfully fluid prose and so many micro-(and major)-insights packed into what’s ostensibly a pretty small piece.

Props!

Michelle Schusterman 07.27.09 | 11:03 PM ET

What a powerful piece! I’ve never considered arranged marriages from that angle. She certainly made a lot of sense.

This is fantastic writing. Thanks for sharing, Eva!

Carlo Alcos 07.28.09 | 1:11 AM ET

I like what Ian said (what Osho said) about love and the way we view it in the western world. We’ve been sold a romanticized fantasy and most people probably have unrealistic expectations. What we’ve also been sold is that we HAVE to partner up to be happy. This is the way society has worked itself out.

It’s a beautiful piece Eva. Congrats on finally getting it out!

Uday Kiran 07.28.09 | 6:21 AM ET

“My husband and I? We’ve learned to work around each other.”  I must say the lady is truly unpretentious.

I don’t think all Indian women sport traditional wear on their travel everyday and always herd children around the train. That honestly sounds a dramatised bit to me.

Nice story. Thanks.

Tom Gates 07.28.09 | 7:53 AM ET

Excellent article, Eva.  You’re a much better listener than I am. I would have jumped in and asked all of the questions that you sat back for.  Bravo!

Linda 07.28.09 | 8:35 AM ET

This is the first article I believe I have read by you, Eva, and yes, it was beautifully written.

Now a response to “arranged marriages”. I don’t think there is anything inherently bad about them except the unfair and unequal status of the two parties involved. Men continue to have “romantic” or lustful coupling while they are married and women are expected to remain pure. These marriages may last longer but are they really any better?

Kelsey 07.28.09 | 11:57 AM ET

Nicely done, Eva. I think sometimes we feel an emotion about a thing and we’re not sure what to think about it.  After some time we can.  That’s what I love about writing.  It gives us an excuse and opportunity to reflect on things that we couldn’t make sense of when they happened.

This story was worth the wait.

Lola 07.28.09 | 3:32 PM ET

Definitely worth the wait indeed. Loved it!

Cristina 07.29.09 | 8:41 AM ET

Lately I realized that those who are not happy would definitely try to tell you that there’s no such thing as true love. But take it from someone who has found true love and married him (thankfully in Europe you don’t see arranged marriages, unless you are gypsy) ... there IS such thing as true love. And i’m so sorry that tradition gets in the way for many Indians. I’ve met several Indian guys who were more than willing to sacrifice any kind of potential love for tradition. Sad. Too sad. Way too sad for a European to try to even understand.

Grizzly Bear Mom 07.29.09 | 11:25 AM ET

Great thoughts Christina, and congratulations on finding love.  Has it passed the test of time? 

But there is a difference between arranged and forced marriages.  Arranged ones allow the individuals to say no.  Also, the couples don’t live as aliens.  It is just wisdom to develop intimacy, just like all those western people whose flame of passion has died down (some). 

As a 49 year old I believe that the wisom of my parents would have increased the probability of my finding marital love. 

Sexual attraction can negativley impact a valid perception of the beloved.  (Parental) wisom can add to it.

anisha 07.29.09 | 9:39 PM ET

Eva, good to get this perspective on arranged marriage, though I’m Indian myself.

“My husband and I? We’ve learned to work around each other.”  says it all for a marriage, love or arranged.
thanks for the light :-)

Bill 07.30.09 | 5:51 PM ET

We almost all seem to agree that it’s a terrific piece of writing.  Nice work.  I guess I can see some sense in arranged marriages, as long as it’s not a forced thing.  For my wife, whose mother has been married 5 times, no WAY would she have agreed to that.  And by the way, we’ve been married 38 years and not only love each other, we’re IN love.  Madly in love.  Best friends. It happens.
But my favorite lines in your article weren’t about marriage but were about the mixed emotions we feel when traveling in a country (any country) that both enthralls us and repels us: ” If there’s anything more cliché in the travel hot spots of the developing world than the smugly indignant tourist, high up on her culturally superior horse, I thought, it’s the fawning tourist with the grotesque admiration for the “simplicity” of the lives she sees around her.”  Well done.

Marlene Affeld 07.30.09 | 11:25 PM ET

Outstanding article, thoughtful and articulate. Thank you for sharing your experience on the train in India. it was thought provoking and touched my heart.

Mary Arulanantham 08.05.09 | 1:27 PM ET

Truly a sensitively written piece, particularly as pertains to the developing observations of a 22(?) year old at the time. I (a non-Indian) married a man from that part of the world and it was one of the few “love” marriages in his family’s experience. I have found that same sense of deliberate provocativeness when discussing the marriage question with his family (both of his sisters had an arranged marriage); even more so, when the question of cousin marriage comes up, which is also still somewhat common in that culture. The challenge is always to look at the truth of someone else’s experiences without tripping over our own preconceptions of what we think those experiences should be. Bravo to you for your insights.

Akila 08.07.09 | 12:15 PM ET

Wonderful piece.  I have lots of thoughts about arranged marriage since I am Indian but born in the United States, raised by parents who had a “love marriage,” and married a white guy.  What I love about your article is the honesty of your discomfort because I think most people feel uncomfortable by the concept of arranged marriages.  Wonderfully written.

HOBO(nickname) 08.16.09 | 2:50 AM ET

Arrange marriage - Parents select a girl. Son, parents & family of both sides approve including girl - Then marriage. It may be called as social approval.
Love marriage - Guy & Girl select each other no matter parents & family approve or not - Then marriage. It may be not considered as social because parents or family approval is sometimes not present And the girl & the guy go for marriage.
In India arrange marriage is The Best but time is changing And now-a-days parents/family approves love.

Cochin Blogger 08.17.09 | 4:11 AM ET

Nice story, but skewed, possibly understandably so, given the writer’s cultural conditioning. Here is another take, possibly skewed too, from an Indian who is in an arranged marriage and has relatives and friends, some of whom have found their own partners and some of whom have had arranged marriages.

Most Indian youngsters today (at least, the urban middle class) are free to choose their own partners if they wish to. Even in the arranged marriage system, the prospective partners can size each other up with multiple meetings before deciding. Either party can veto.

As for the system followed in the West, it’s left to chance. Hooking up is usually more about sexual attraction that love, and that attraction naturally wears off in a couple of years. Look at Sarah Palin’s daughter. She and the stud who knocked her up found love, didn’t they? Yeah, the feeling typically lasts for a couple of years, and then the search for the next love of one’s life. And so on, from one partner to the next, in serial lover fashion.

And does anyone spare a thought for the kids jammed between the revolving doors of the marriages of their parents?  No, it’s all about me and my satisfaction. Me, me , me!

Does anyone spare a thought for those who are socially awkward and physically unattractive? Some of them end up being so desperate to get married that they make unwise choices, hitching up with the first partner who is ready to sleep with them.

It’s a paradox that Westerners, who are normally so rational about everything else, are so irrational about how they choose their partners, trusting to an ephemeral emotion that statistics show will transmute into bitterness and hostility within a couple of years. The Western system (if the dating game can be called that) is not much better than wind pollination in plants. The Asian arranged marriage system ensures that partners have similar family backgrounds and interests. And if one does want to marry someone one meets, one can marry outside of the arranged marriage system. It’s the best of both worlds, in a way. It’s better and safer than trying to hook up with someone in a singles bar or trying the classifieds.

With the arranged system, one can meet many more prospective partners than one could by personally meeting people at work, etc. The field opens up! The families of prospective partners are known, including hereditary diseases (and criminal backgrounds!), if any. The background is intensively scrutinized. Unpleasant surprises post-marriage are minimized.

In fact, the writer of an article in a U.S. newspaper in the 1960s, considering the divorce rates then, wondered if it wasn’t better to return to the arranged marriage system.

I think there are Jewish communities that follow a similar system, the family encouraging compatible youngsters to meet.

There’s an underlying difference in perspective: For Asians, marriage performs a largely societal function, the perpetuation of the species (kids, family, etc.); for the Westerner, it’s about individual fulfillment.

The ideal would be to balance both perspectives.

Basically, it’s a gamble anyway, whatever the route taken, but as in every other endeavor, doing one’s homework improves the odds of success.

I wish someone would write the following piece. Middle-aged Indian meets middle-aged U.S.-raised Indian-American in a train somewhere in the U.S. They start talking. The Indian-American describes her first marriage and how it failed after 3 years, when the right guy appeared again like magic, whom she married. Now, 2 years later,  that marriage is failing, and she’s carrying on with another guy who thinks she’s a goddess. There are passing references to the kids from the two marriages, and her plans to ditch her current husband and marry the guy who thinks she’s a goddess.

And as for this line in the article: “My husband and I? We’ve learned to work around each other,” it’s one of the best-kept secrets of most long-lived marriages of any stripe, but perhaps it’s a secret that’s being forgotten in the West because long-lived marriages are so rare?!

Johanna (and her sister) 08.26.09 | 10:53 AM ET

eva holland, i just read this piece to my sister, both of us between laughing out loud and quiet intrigue… what a fantastic fusion of humour, romance, and travel. it’s beautiful. i loved your honest response to the woman’s story and the hilarious way you described yourself reacting to it. i can picture that 22 year old. very, very nice.

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