RECENT DISPATCHES
6.23.08
Slumming in Rio
Slum tourism is on the rise. But are the guided tours educational or exploitive? Rob Verger joined one in Rio de Janeiro’s impoverished favelas to find out. 6.13.08 The Procession of Black Hats
Jonathan J. Levin hadn’t lived up to his father’s expectations. But when he moved to Mexico City, he was told something he thought he’d never hear. TRAVEL BLOGHappy Fourth of JulyWorld Hum’s Most Read: June 28-July 3What We Loved This Week: Def Leppard in Greece, Austrian Competence and Freedom in ColombiaThe LAX Theme Building, Then and Now
ASK ROLFAs a Woman, Can I Really Travel Without Much Fear for my Safety?Vagabonding traveler Rolf Potts answers your questions about travel AUDIO SLIDESHOWInside Slum TourismWith mixed feelings, Rob Verger recently signed on for a tour of Rio de Janeiro’s favelas. He looks back on the experience—and the photos he was allowed to take. HOW TO
Break Bread and Brie in FranceGreat cheese abounds in the land of Gaul, but dig in and you risk committing any number of faux pas. Terry Ward explains how to partake of the nation’s famed fromage with savoir faire. THE LIST
10 Wanderlust-Inducing Summer ConcertsCall it world music or global pop or the sound of the world hum. Ben Keene reveals 10 acts on tour that are sure to transport you. Plus videos.
Q&A
Bryan Mealer: ‘War and Deliverance in Congo’The former AP correspondent traveled up the Congo River. Frank Bures asks the author of “All Things Must Fight to Live” about following in the wake of Joseph Conrad. SPEAKER'S CORNERA Journey Into ‘The Second World’Some bureaucrats joke that they would never claim expertise about countries they had not at least flown over. In an excerpt from his new book, Parag Khanna argues that real global understanding can only come from serious travel.
BOOKS
‘The Worst Guidebook Writer Ever’?Lonely Planet author Robert Reid reviews Thomas Kohnstamm’s “Do Travel Writers Go to Hell?” and weighs in on the controversy surrounding it |
ITEM1.16.08
Travel Writing, Heartbreak and Granta’s 100th Issue
The plucky literary magazine has always defined the best kind of travel literature: complicated personal narratives about moving through a messy world. When I read old issues, I feel like I owe a huge debt to Bill Buford, the flamboyant editor who, early on, published Bruce Chatwin, Bill Bryson, Ryszard Kapuscinski, Jonathan Raban, James Fenton and others. Buford showed what travel writing could do, and how to elevate it to an art on par with fiction and other narrative nonfiction. It all started in 1979, when Buford took over the magazine while studying at Cambridge. He made a big splash publishing Salman Rushdie, and the Best of Young British Novelists. A few issues later, according to Garfield, Buford had an even bigger coup: He published Granta’s first Travel Writing issue. “Buford regards this edition as the culmination of all he was striving for in the first three years,” writes Garfield, “Or as he puts it: ‘Finally I fucking did it.’” Garfield also observes that “The influence of the travel writing issue far exceeded its sales.” Buford kept editing the magazine until 1995, when he handed it off to Ian Jack. According to the article, Jack’s focus didn’t really change. I can’t say whether it did or not, though my favorite issues are still from the Buford years. One passage in the story did strike me in the gut. After admitting that he turned down Jonathan Safran Foer’s Everything is Illuminated because he thought it was “undergraduate nonsense,” Jack goes on to say that, “The worst thing is to commission a piece...and for it to come in after the writer has spent months on it, for it to be a long way short of the full shilling, so it goes back to the writer, and comes in again, and it’s still not right, so it goes back for more work, and finally I have to say to the writer, ‘I’m really sorry, this doesn’t work’. It’s absolutely defensible, but it’s a soul-destroying thing for the writer.” This is true. I know. I’m one of those writers. Several years ago, I got a dream assignment for Granta to do a story about a disappeared environmental activist in Borneo. I traveled there and spent months working on the story, then turned in a 12,000 word monster narrative, only to have it come up (though not in these terms) short of the shilling. I sent in a revision, but never heard back. And that was it. At the time, all I wanted was to have my story in there where all the people who had made me want to write had been published. It was a failure that loomed over everything I wrote for a long time. Some days, it felt like a nail in the coffin of my writing career. But I kept going, eventually recovered, and tried to take what I could from it. Looking back, I realize that Jack was probably right. I was probably too young, the story was probably too big, and I probably wanted it to work too badly. Whatever the case, I learned a lot from experience. Now, he’s retiring, bringing another Granta era to a close. Jack is handing the reigns off to Jason Cowley, and we’ll have to wait and see what he does with the beloved magazine. If that doesn’t work out, we can always dip into the “vast archive” that is supposed to appear online soon.
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COMMENTSAs a fellow writer, I felt my own heart break a little when I read your account of the Borneo assignment. Glad you kept at the writing. By on 1.16.08 at 11:39 AM
I agree with Tara. This is a freelancer’s nightmare. Frank, you are an example for us all vis a vis perseverance. By on 1.16.08 at 03:28 PM
I worship Granta, and after reading this I worship you too Frank. By on 1.17.08 at 04:47 PM
Amazing post, Frank. “This is the magazine that was my first travel-writing love, and also the first to break my heart.” Is it perverse to look forward to someday having my first travel-writing heartbreak, too? By Eva Holland on 1.17.08 at 08:47 PM
Nice bit of history there - is this edition restricted to the US? By Past Papers on 3.25.08 at 03:03 PM
I’m a long running fan of Granta.
Anyway, the 101st edition “Granta 101” is already released this spring, have any of you people purchased it? By on 5.19.08 at 10:38 PM
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