How to Find Good Gelato in Italy

07.21.06 | 6:41 AM ET

The situation: You’ve just arrived in Italy and have already checked out a couple of piazzas, but thanks to the summer heat, you’re in dire need of a cool down. Wisely, you decide to head for a gelateria. But with so many shops around, which one should you pick? And what to order? Chill. You need a gelato primer.

Gelato basics: In Italy, gelato is enjoyed by everyone, from pure-blooded Italians and Italophiles to wide-eyed tourists. “Eating gelato in Italy, holding your two scoops while strolling along, is one way to have an authentic Italian moment,” says Michael McGarry, author of several ice cream guides, including Gelato: Finding Italy’s Best Gelaterias. “It’s something that everyone can afford.”

Although the direct Italian-to-English translation for gelato is ice cream, there are enough differences between the two to set gelato apart. Ice cream is made from fresh cream, resulting in a butterfat content of between 10 and 30 percent. Gelato, on the other hand, is typically made with milk, water or soy as a base, and it has a fat content of between 1 and 10 percent. Gelato is not only healthier, but its flavor is easier to taste. The cream in ice cream saturates one’s taste buds; thus, its richness and sweetness prevail. Gelato’s less fatty base provides a more subtle background that allows its flavors to shine.

Where to go: Long lines are often a good sign of a high-quality gelateria. Don’t let them turn you off. Also, make sure that you line up with Italians, and not with too many tourists. “(Italians) usually don’t like to deal with crowds of tourists,” says McGarry. “But they will put up with them for good gelato.” Look around for a “fatta in casa” sign. That means that the gelato was made in-house. Only shops that produce their gelato onsite can hang these signs legally. Shops without these signs most likely purchased their gelato from elsewhere and are best avoided. If you think you’ve found a good place, make sure its gelato is stored in metal containers, rather than plastic ones—another sign of mass production.

Gelato aesthetics: Check out the color of the gelato. Good gelato is usually of muted, natural and often uglier coloring. If it is too bright, it was probably made from a mix with artificial flavoring and/or coloring. The easiest trick is to check the banana gelato: if it is bright yellow, move on to another gelateria. If it is a grayish hue, it was likely made with real bananas—a good sign.

How to order: Typically, you must first pay the cashier, who will hand you a receipt. When you are ready to place your order, give the receipt to the server. This is the rule at the larger gelaterias, where at peak times the server will ignore you if you do not have a receipt in hand. At small gelaterias, you may be able to order first before paying. Even if you get pushed aside by a few rude customers, don’t be discouraged. Take the extra time to look over the flavors.

Advanced technique: Usually, you can order two to three flavors per cone or cup. Don’t be afraid to branch out from strawberry or chocolate and try something new. Many gelaterias change their selections often to accommodate seasonal ingredients. Such flavors will only be available a few weeks per year and will probably be the freshest and best-tasting choices. Ask the server about the house specialty (specialità).

Gelato lingo: Although servers at popular (and tourist-frequented) gelaterias usually speak and understand some English, it is more polite and fun to order in Italian. When ordering a strawberry cone, say in your best Italian accent: “Voglio un cono di fragola.” (“I want a strawberry cone.”)

Photo by David Turner.

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