Filmed Here: ‘When Harry Met Sally…’

Movie tourism: to some, it may be an embarrassing, empty and needy exercise. But to me, it’s at worst a harmless detour from more weighty travel fare, and—in a best-case scenario—can even be a surprisingly illuminating way of looking at the world. By chasing the spots where ghosts of film crews past still linger, you can find yourself stumbling on unexpected treasures, or seeing well-worn landmarks in a new light.

I’ve dabbled in the practice before, but this year I’ve decided to get serious. During my present stay in New York City, and beyond, I plan on seeking out some major movie-making landmarks, and (naturally) sharing my findings here.

And where better to open an occasional series on movie tourism hot spots than Manhattan’s Katz’s Deli, of When Harry Met Sally fame?

Quibblers, hold your fire—I’m well aware that several other movies have been filmed at Katz’s. And yes, I even know that it was a landmark long before Hollywood came calling; the deli had already passed its 100th birthday when Harry and Sally arrived for their fateful pastrami sandwiches. But let’s face it, when most people outside Manhattan think of Katz’s Delicatessen, they think of one thing only: the fake orgasm heard ‘round the world.

I had heard that Katz’s has become something of a tourist trap, and I wanted to see for myself how loudly the place was trumpeting its Meg Ryan connection. So earlier this week I slid my plastic tray onto an empty table and settled in for lunch. The deli was larger than I expected, but was otherwise exactly as I remembered it from the movie. I did a quick check of the staff uniforms: no mention of Harry or Sally printed anywhere. Of course, there was a sign hanging above the famous table (pictured) urging customers to “have what she had!” and stills from the movie were mixed in with the photos of famous customers that line the walls. At one point, a giggling girl sitting near me asked her boyfriend to snap a photo while she placed her order. But beyond that? Nothing to separate it from any other vintage deli.

(If you think Katz’s is a movie-tourism-hellhole, you should try Edinburgh’s Elephant House on for size sometime. Made legendary by its “Harry Potter” connection—J.K. Rowling wrote much of the first book there—it certainly won’t be home to more budding novelists anytime soon. That is, unless they need tourist hordes and complete chaos to get their creative juices flowing.)

All in all, I was impressed by the deli’s restraint in milking its Harry and Sally heritage. Thanks to that restraint, the place still feels real, not at all like a theme park; I could pretend, for a few minutes, that Billy Crystal and Meg Ryan might sit down next to me, bickering, at any moment.

Embarrassing and empty? Maybe. But I had fun—and hey, my matzo ball soup wasn’t bad, either.

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