Invasion of the Hungarian Pigs

There are several different types of pig species (or, if you will, sub pigs). The bearded pig is one I’d certainly hate meeting in a dark pig pen. The Indo-Chinese warty pig is another ominous-sounding swine. In all, there are over two billion pigs on the planet right now (and if they’d ever join forces with monkeys, we’d be in big trouble). Most of the pork we eat comes from the generic domestic pig (or sus scrofa domesticus) and, thanks to mass breeding, its offerings have taken on rather bland notes. Not that we’d know it unless we began eating another species of swine. And, in fact, some restaurants around the country are letting diners do just that.

Enter the Mangalitsa. This curly-haired pig from Hungary was once the go-to beast for lard in the Habsburg Empire. But after World War I and the importation of cheaper, less-fickle pigs, the Mangalitsa declined. A couple decades ago they were almost extinct. They’re now making a comeback and, according to a couple chefs in the United States, the meat is divine. Deven Knells, who mans the stoves at the French Laundry (in Napa) told the New York Times that Mangalitsa meat is marbled and dissolves on the tongue. He said it’s softer and creamier, like Wagyu beef. 

Pig-loving foodies are licking their lips while you read this, awaiting the site of Mangalitsa on menus. And maybe this will breed pig connoisseurs who became experts in eating different pig species. Crispy bearded pig belly, anyone?

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