Travel dispatches from a shrinking planet

Travel dispatches from a shrinking planet

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Love Herring in Sweden

From artery-clogging casseroles to a fermented concoction that smells alarmingly like vinegary flatulence, Lola Akinmade digs in to a smörgåsbord of herring and explains how to best appreciate Scandinavia’s favorite fish. 

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The Water Is Wide

Bronwen Dickey considers Tim Butcher’s “Blood River: A Journey to Africa’s Broken Heart,” which takes readers deep into the Congo

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Vagrant Ruminations of a Compulsive Traveler

Where does the urge to hunt for that “fleeting fix of elsewhere” come from? Peter Wortsman recalls a life of travel inspiration. 

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Rolf Potts: Revelations from a Postmodern Travel Writer

His new book “Marco Polo Didn’t Go There” includes his best stories from the past 10 years. Michael Yessis asks him how travel writing has changed in the last decade—and what he sees for the future.

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Notes From an Unofficial Tourist Greeter

Summer is over, and so is Julia Ross‘ season as an ambassador to travelers in Washington, D.C.’s Woodley Park neighborhood. She’s happy to be off duty.


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10 Great Travel Race Movies

Slow travel is well and good. But there’s something irresistible about a great travel race movie. World Hum Travel Movie Clubbers Eva Holland and Eli Ellison share their favorite vicarious thrill rides.

ASK ROLF
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How Should I Spend My Time in Spain?

Vagabonding traveler Rolf Potts answers your questions about travel

TRAVEL BLOG
5.20.08

Checkpoint Travel 101 in Israel

imageI’ve had an eye-opening tutorial in travel through military checkpoints in the West Bank this month, getting turned away at one for not having the proper documentation, then getting barked at by Israeli soldiers at various others. I came across this surreal sign posted by Israel’s Ministry of Tourism at the checkpoint near Bethlehem. The checkpoint is covered with barbed wire and feels like an armed camp. 

Inside, I got lost momentarily in the maze of turnstiles. An Israeli soldier had to direct me to the exit over an intercom. 

At another checkpoint near Ramallah, I sailed through by car with a Palestinian driver and colleague. When I asked if the international NGO logo slapped on the SUV door allowed them to pass through unhassled, my driver just smiled. “They stop us every day. That’s why we asked you to sit up front.”

Photo by Julia Ross.

Posted by Julia Ross • 5.20.08
Categories: WeblogIsrael

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Hi Julia:

I’ve never been to Israel, but here in New York I keep meeting athletically shaped woman, straight out of a fashion catalog, speaking a strange tongue who look like they could kick my ass.

They are probably saying things like “That goy’s jeans were washed three days ago.”

They treat my card either with arrogant indifference or regard it as if it were a direct invitation to go steeple jumping in the countryside.

With all the coverage in The New York Times, I’m usually careful about what I say about a place I’ve never been, but which is mentioned in the Bible (but, alas, as an unreachable idea probably not of this earth). If Christ really was born there, it seems unlikely we would have heard about the Virgin birth in the wilderness. I think Christ was born in Europe and came down to pacify a riot, with the Romans’ permission.

This might seem, if not blasphemous, at least contrary to what we’ve learned in school. But in my worldwide travels I’ve been introduced to “secret” pagan Christian art with depictions of Christ older than when he was supposedly born. It’s possible that he even arrived by Viking ship.

His miracles were so impressive that 8 years after the end of the millenium we still say Anno Domino, cross ourselves when something goes wrong, and prepare ourselves someday either for the Pearly Gates or the Dungeon Door.

In an Eastern European country which speaks the mirror-image alphabet of the Bulgarian monks Cyril and Methodius I saw an ancient mosaic of a Christ Pantocrator thast seemed impossibly old, as well as a depiction of the devil who looked remarkably similar, except his face was blacked out with charcoal.

Anyway, the ruins at Bethlehem bear closer investigation. Despite what Arthur Ochs Sulzberger forces us to see everyday amid a cloud of bombs and buses, I hear Eilat is a nice beach resort, well worth visiting.

By  on  5.20.08  at  08:05 PM


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