Travel dispatches from a shrinking planet

Travel dispatches from a shrinking planet

TRAVEL BLOG
ASK ROLF
image

As a Woman, Can I Really Travel Without Much Fear for my Safety?

Vagabonding traveler Rolf Potts answers your questions about travel

AUDIO SLIDESHOW
image

Inside Slum Tourism

With mixed feelings, Rob Verger recently signed on for a tour of Rio de Janeiro’s favelas. He looks back on the experience—and the photos he was allowed to take.


HOW TO
image

Break Bread and Brie in France

Great cheese abounds in the land of Gaul, but dig in and you risk committing any number of faux pas. Terry Ward explains how to partake of the nation’s famed fromage with savoir faire.

THE LIST
image

10 Wanderlust-Inducing Summer Concerts

Call it world music or global pop or the sound of the world hum. Ben Keene reveals 10 acts on tour that are sure to transport you. Plus videos.

Q&A
image

Bryan Mealer: ‘War and Deliverance in Congo’

The former AP correspondent traveled up the Congo River. Frank Bures asks the author of “All Things Must Fight to Live” about following in the wake of Joseph Conrad. 

SPEAKER'S CORNER
image

A Journey Into ‘The Second World’

Some bureaucrats joke that they would never claim expertise about countries they had not at least flown over. In an excerpt from his new book, Parag Khanna argues that real global understanding can only come from serious travel.

BOOKS
image

‘The Worst Guidebook Writer Ever’?

Lonely Planet author Robert Reid reviews Thomas Kohnstamm’s “Do Travel Writers Go to Hell?” and weighs in on the controversy surrounding it

TRAVEL BLOG
9.6.07

Where in the World Are You, Christy Quirk?

imageThe subject of our latest nearly up-to-the-minute interview with a traveler somewhere in the world: Christy Quirk, a writer and consultant. Her response landed in our inbox this morning.

World Hum: Where in the world are you?

I have been living in Istanbul, Turkey for eight months. I moved here from Kyiv, Ukraine. Before that, I lived in Baku, Azerbaijan, where my husband now runs a film production company. Istanbul is my reward for Kyiv’s winters and Baku’s coarseness.

What are you doing there?

I do opinion research and communications consulting. In addition to blogging, I am Gridskipper’s Istanbul correspondent. I am writing a book, too.

What do you see around you?

My Ottoman-era wood house overlooks an historic but defunct yellow hamam on a street known for its antique dealers. The neighborhood is gentrifying rapidly. Film and photography studios sit at one end of the street while at the other, women in chador disappear into dark stairways and assorted livestock graze in the vacant lots. It’s Istanbul in one long, sort of messy, block.

Got a pic?
image

What did you have for dinner last night, and where?

Istanbul is full of restaurants with fantastic fish, restaurants with stunning views and restaurants with great service. Doga Balik in the Cihangir neighborhood of Beyoglu combines all three. It’s known for its unusual cold mezzes: seaweed, oysters, purslane, Aegean crab, watermelon greens and carrot greens, as well as all the usuals like peppers, eggplant and white beans in olive oil. It’s my favorite place to take visitors—it shows off Istanbul’s awesomeness with no effort on my part!

What music are you listening to these days?

I recently acquired Shakira’s whole discography, which is a lot more Shakira than an ordinary person needs. In between the five different versions of “Si Te Vas,” I hear the new Manu Chao, Amy Winehouse, the National, Rhett Miller as well as some overwrought but loveable Turkish power pop.

What are you reading?

I just finished Cormac McCarthy’s Blood Meridian: Or the Evening Redness in the West. It’s like HBO’s Deadwood on crystal meth—hyper-aggressive, spectacularly violent, unapologetically amoral and written in stark and beautiful prose. It made me homesick for the American desert, only without all the scalping. To recover, I picked up Christopher Buckley’s Florence of Arabia, which is especially hilarious if you’ve spent any time in the Muslim world.

What did you experience in the last 24 hours that you’d recommend?

I have the most beautiful dog walk, possibly in the universe. We started out at what I call the Stoner Stairs in Cihangir, where people who have a hard time fitting into Turkish society—drunks, people with dogs, pot smokers, anarchists, punks and shamans—like to congregate.  After we chatted with the regulars, we crossed into a new park that has my favorite view in the whole city. On a clear day, you can see everything that makes Istanbul Istanbul: the dirty, red-roofed sprawl of Asia, all the way out to the Princes’ Islands in the Sea of Marmara; the pink blister of Aya Sofia and the five black-tipped needles of the Blue Mosque in Sultanahmet; the white and green ferries and tiny wood fishing boats dodging rusting Soviet-era freighters in the Bosporus. When the evening light was warm and the prayer calls echoed off the hills and water, I asked the dogs if they had any idea how lucky they are. But they were busy chasing dirty street cats.

Where in the world are you headed next?

I’m probably headed to Kabul this fall for a few weeks for work, as well Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and maybe Indonesia. For fun, my husband and I plan to visit a friend in Beirut. I’m always happy to come back to Istanbul. It’s a challenging enough place to live that I’m always a little off balance, but not so hard that I’m in a constant state of annoyance.

Related on World Hum:
* Slide Show: Rug Burn in Istanbul
* The Joy of Steam
* Where in the World Are You, Jeremy David?

Posted by World Hum • 9.6.07
Categories: WeblogTurkeyWhere in the World Are You?

Share this item at del.icio.us PermalinkComments (2)


COMMENTS

Wow,you live in Istanbul! I was lucky enough to do the same,43 years ago. I went back last year and loved it. I stayed n Cihangir,in the hotel where DOga Balik is. great food and a view to die for. Looks as if that is where you live also. I hope to go back again next year,for a month.

By  on  9.6.07  at  12:26 PM

Hey Christie,

Hi it’s Robin, your neighbor in Cihangir, Istanbul. Small world eh?

Robin

By Robin Sparks  on  12.27.07  at  04:29 PM


ADD YOUR COMMENT

We reserve the right to remove comments with profanity, personal attacks, spam, overt advertisements or other inappropriate material.

Name:
Email:
Location:
URL:

Remember my personal information

Notify me of follow-up comments?

Submit the word you see here:



WEBLOG CATEGORIES

Adventure Travel
Afghanistan
Air Travel
'Airworld'
Africa
Alaska
Albania
Antarctica
Architecture and Travel
Argentina
Asia
Audio/Video
Australia
Bali
Bookstore Tourism
Belize
Ben's Place of the Week
Bhutan
Bolivia
Botswana
Brazil
Brand That Nation!
Budget Travel
Burma
California
Cambodia
Canada
Caribbean
Celebrity Travel Watch
Chile
China
Colombia
Costa Rica
Cruising
Cuba
Denmark
Czech Republic
Dominican Republic
Dubai
Eco-Travel
Ecuador
England
Egypt
El Salvador
Estonia
Ethiopia
Europe
Family Travel
Fiji
Finland
Florida
Food: The Moveable Feast
France
Geography for Fun and Profit
Germany
Georgia
Global Village
Ghana
Greece
Greenland
Guatemala
Guest Blogger: Thomas Swick
Guest Blogger: Michael Shapiro
Haiti
Hawaii
History Travel
Holland
Honduras
Hong Kong
Hot Americans on Television Botching Geography Questions
Hotels
Iceland
Icons: Ernest Hemingway
Icons: Che Guevara
Icons: Jack Kerouac
Icons: Mark Twain
In the News
India
Indonesia
Iowa
Iraq
Iran
Ireland
Islands
Israel
Italy
Jamaica
Japan
Jordan
Kenya
Kosovo
Las Vegas
Latvia
Life of a Travel Writer
Lebanon
Libya
Literary Travel
Los Angeles
London
Malaysia
Mali
Media Addict
Mexico
Moldova
Mongolia
Morocco
Moscow
Movies and Travel
Music
Nation Branding
Nepal
New Orleans
New Travel Books
New York
New Zealand
9.11.01
Nicaragua
North America
North Korea
Norway
Outdoors
Page Turner
Pakistan
Paris
Peru
Planet Theme Park
Poland
Portugal
Puerto Rico
R.I.P.
Road Trips
Romania
Russia
San Diego
San Francisco
Saudi Arabia
Scotland
Shameless Self-Promotion
Shanghai
Shrinking Planet Statistic of the Day
Singapore
Somalia
South Africa
South America
South Korea
Space Travel
Spain
Suriname
Sweden
Switzerland
Syria
Taiwan
Tanzania
Technology and Travel
Thailand
The Critics
Thomas Swick on Travel Writing
Three Great Books
Three Travel Books
Tibet
Tokyo
Top 30 Travel Books
Train Travel
Travel and Security
Travel Disease du Jour
Travel Fashion
Travel Headline of the Day
Travel Lexicon
Travel Photography
Travel-Terror Fatigue Index
Travel Tips
Travel Writer Book Tours
Tres Loco
Turkey
Ukraine
United States
Venezuela
Vietnam
Voluntourism
War and Travel
Washington D.C.
What We Loved This Week
What Would Edward Abbey Think?
Where in the World Are You?
Why We Travel
World Hum Travel Zeitgeist
Zambia