RECENT DISPATCHES
8.6.08
Like Writing on Water
In western Uganda, Christopher Vourlias met Colin, a farmer and poet who questioned the purpose of life while happily revealing the meaning of nohandika ha maiise. 7.15.08My Senegalese Cousin, the Rice-Loving Pig
When the woman selling peanuts at a Samba Dia market learned the Senegalese name adopted by Katie Krueger, negotiations took an insulting turn TRAVEL BLOGWorld Hum’s Most Read: Aug. 23-29What We Loved This Week: Las Vegas, Maui and the Street Art of Sao PauloR.I.P. ‘Staycation’‘The Internet is About the Best Thing to Happen to Geography Nerds Since the Sextant’
SPEAKER'S CORNER
A Tourist With a Shovel and a HoeWhen she arrived in Kenya to volunteer with the Maasai, Daniela Petrova looked down her nose at tourists there to have a good time. But was her own motivation much different? ASK ROLFHow Should I Spend My Time in Spain?Vagabonding traveler Rolf Potts answers your questions about travel Q&A
Paul Theroux: Invisible Man on a Ghost TrainJim Benning asks the author of “Ghost Train to the Eastern Star” about his new book, aging and the challenge of disappearing in the age of the BlackBerry HOW TO
Eat Ceviche in LimaGrab a Cusqueña and get comfortable. As Nicholas Gill explains, a trip to a Peruvian cevichería can be an all-day immersion in good conversation and raw seafood. BOOKS
Unsentimental Journeys: Wrestling With Paul TherouxBronwen Dickey considers “Ghost Train to the Eastern Star: 28,000 Miles in Search of the Great Railway Bazaar” AUDIO SLIDESHOWMy Travels, My FeetAfter taking one too many headless torso shots of herself, solo traveler Sophia Dembling started snapping photos of her feet around the world, from the Grand Canyon to Red Square THE LIST
Seven Reasons to Have a Foreign FlingSure, having an overseas romance is fun. But Terry Ward points out seven other benefits to cross-border love, mon petit chou. |
DISPATCH2.3.05
Confessions of a Chicken ManDoug Mack knows exactly what you think of him when he orders the blandest thing on a foreign menu. And he’s okay with that.
“I’ll have the chicken,” I say. And then, always, the server nods, smirks, suppresses a roll of the eyes, and writes something on the pad of paper. “Gringo Special” or “Typical Yank Meal #3,” I’d guess. My traveling companions, also following the unwritten script, snicker and, after the server has left, make snide remarks. When the food arrives, the others in my group will find themselves facing brimming towers of mystery meat and overcooked vegetables native to the region—these are the tourist restaurant versions of ostensibly authentic local cuisine. One or two people in the group, generally young men intent on proving their masculinity, may have ordered something truly exotic—puffin with gooseberries or tongue on toast. In front of me lies a chicken breast, grilled, fried or roasted, sprinkled with a benign assortment of spices. I know what it will taste like. I know it will be bland. I know everyone at the table will continue to ridicule me throughout the meal, some out loud, some silently. I know, too, that I am missing out on an important part of the travel experience by ordering that most generic of meals. But I feel no need to prove myself by eating whole the still-beating heart of a just-killed cobra, as author and chef Anthony Bourdain recounts doing in his book “A Cook’s Tour.” I have no interest in sampling raw oysters, garlic-drenched slugs, fried potato bugs, or, goodness, a cute, roasted guinea pig. I don’t care how you pickle it, fry it, sauce it or disguise it in patty form, I do not want to eat puffin, or iguana, or bull’s testicles, no matter how tasty they may be. To be sure, I do get a certain thrill from reading such accounts, from hearing friends who served in the Peace Corps rave about their favorite snack food, termites, or even from witnessing my traveling companions eat assorted animals, from the small and cute to the large and disgusting. But these are foods I will only ingest vicariously; when it comes time to order, it’s always the same: “I’ll have the chicken.” It’s not so much that I’m the stereotypical ugly American unwilling to try new things. If I find myself in a village, eating a meal with a local family, I will, out of courtesy, eat nearly anything placed before me. As a tourist, though, I’ll savor the local culture through music, art, conversation and other aspects of the cross-cultural experience that won’t give me nausea or nightmares. My culinary anxiety comes not from the unfamiliarity of strange foods but from their potential for causing me immense discomfort. I have a major aversion, and one that I think is highly logical, to getting sick. My stomach is not an iron one; indeed, it is more likely formed of parchment paper, given its general fragility. Even a few oddly prepared vegetables can, and have, set it rumbling and churning for days. In a restaurant in Scotland’s Orkney Islands, I once ordered a seemingly wholesome and safe dish labeled “Carrot Loaf,” a congealed mass of grated carrots, crushed nuts and other ingredients that I believe were salvaged from the kitchen’s garbage. I spent the next day in agony, doing laps, in a high-speed shuffle, from toilet to bed and back again. If a few carrots and nuts can cause that much misery, I don’t intend to explore the gastroenterological consequences of ingesting the more spicy, exotic and pungent items that my companions consume with glee. And so I stick with the chicken. This decision, I would like to point out, is not a complete cop-out; there are far worse culinary transgressions. I will never go to McDonald’s in Moscow, T.G.I. Friday’s in Managua or, God forbid, Pizza Hut in Nice. But I will, in that local restaurant in the middle of unfamiliar terrain, seek out that ordinary, gringo food, the chicken. And it will usually have some sort of twist, not major, but at least perceptible: an accompanying salsa of rainforest fruits and vegetables in Costa Rica, or, in Scotland, chicken in curries and sandwiches, on beds of locally harvested greens and covered in assorted sauces. Chefs understand that with chicken, you can always add a few things without freaking anyone out; it is an inherently mundane, soothing food, and a few spices or a simple sauce will not make it menacingly exotic; it will still appeal to unadventurous non-gourmands such as myself. And so each dish is slightly different, and each chicken meal offers an opportunity to assess the chef’s effort to enliven the blank canvas of poultry. Now I know how chefs across the world prepare chicken. And how servers scoff in several languages. It’s the silver lining of my gastronomic paranoia, the self-imposed affliction that I am what I eat: chicken.
Photo by Jim Benning. works for a nonprofit organization in Saint Paul, Minnesota, and is the cofounder of ProfessorYeti.com. He travels whenever possible, and always carries a few breakfast bars in his suitcase.
|
Subscribe to World Hum's RSS feed.
Got a suggestion? Follow World Hum on Twitter Check out our take on the WEBLOG CATEGORIES
Adventure Travel |