Travel dispatches from a shrinking planet

Travel dispatches from a shrinking planet

RECENT DISPATCHES
5.6.08

On the Occasional Importance of a Ceiling Fan

Emily Stone knew well the kind of moment she was experiencing in Puerto Rico: the guy, the Cuba libres, the accelerated intimacy. It was perfectly safe, she told herself, as long as she knew when to get out.

4.23.08

A Writer’s Port of Call

Adam Karlin went to Indonesia to work as a reporter. But after a visit to Jakarta’s old wharf to see the aging Makassar schooners, he left with a calling of a different order.

TRAVEL BLOG
SPEAKER'S CORNER
image

In Patagonia, In Patagonia

Tim Patterson packs his fleece and long underwear, and enters the Twilight Zone where corporate branding meets the multi-layered reality of place. 

ASK ROLF
image

Should I Quit Law School so I can Travel the World?

Vagabonding traveler Rolf Potts answers your questions about travel

BOOKS
image

‘The Worst Guidebook Writer Ever’?

Lonely Planet author Robert Reid reviews Thomas Kohnstamm’s “Do Travel Writers Go to Hell?” and weighs in on the controversy surrounding it

Q&A
image

Thomas Kohnstamm’s Lonely Planet: The Firestorm Around ‘Do Travel Writers Go to Hell?’

The author of a new book that purports to explore the underside of travel writing is taking a lot of hits. Frank Bures asks him about the controversy he’s stirred up and his take on the guidebook industry.

HOW TO
image

Have a Hockey Night in Canada

From Montreal to Sault Ste. Marie, the sport is the country’s greatest passion. Eva Holland explains where to go to indulge—and who you need to know.

AUDIO SLIDE SHOW
image

Promised Land Closed

And other odd and unlikely signs from around the world. Aficionado Doug Lansky, editor of the book “Signspotting,” recounts his 10 favorites.


THE LIST
image

10 Sizzling Hot Travel Tips From Sir Francis Bacon

Rolf Potts repackages the 17th century philosopher’s ‘Of Travel’ essay in the manner of a 21st century magazine feature

DISPATCH
12.3.04

Signs of Confusion

Bad translations abound. In a Thai restaurant, Rolf Potts struggles to make sense of them.

One afternoon late last year, I went out for lunch at a restaurant not far from the south Thailand guesthouse where I’d been staying. My landlady ran the place, and on this day she seemed particularly pleased to see me. “We have new English menu!” she exclaimed, presenting me with a glossy list of entrees.

I took a seat and scanned the menu, which listed the kinds of dishes I’d always eaten there—red curry, paad thai, tom yam. Then, amidst the standard delicacies, I noticed a dish I’d never before sampled in this part of the world: FRIED RICE WITH CRAP.

Concerned, I took the menu over to my landlady. “I think this dish is a mistake,” I told her.

“Oh, no!” she replied brightly. “We make seafood for you!  Fresh from water!”

I gave my landlady a skeptical look. “But surely ‘crap’ is not what you meant to write.”

“Yes, crap! Very delicious!”

I considered this. “Do you by chance mean ‘carp’?”

“No!” she laughed. “Crap!” She splayed her hands and mimicked the scuttling movement of a crustacean.

“Oh, you mean crab. C-R-A-B. Not C-R-A-P.”

“Yes!” she said, handing the menu back to me. “Crab. Both sound same to me.” Then, almost as an afterthought, she asked: “What means ‘crap’?”

This was not the first time I’d chanced into such an awkwardly comical situation in Thailand. At the central market in Ranong, one could buy packets of “COCK CONDITIONING PILLS” (which I very much hope are for roosters), and the local supermarket did fast trade in a brand of toilet paper called “Sit and Smile.” Perhaps most notably, however, a toy vendor along the main street sold packs of tiny plastic animals that came with a sober warning for parents: “BE CAREFUL OF BEING EATEN BY SMALL CHILDREN.”

To be sure, Thailand holds no monopoly on poorly translated English. Some years ago, a series of forwarded e-mails made the rounds, describing bizarre signs posted in Kenyan restaurants ("Customers who find our waitresses rude ought to see the manager"), Norwegian cocktail lounges ("Ladies are requested not to have children in the bar"), and Russian monasteries ("You are welcome to visit the cemetery where famous Russian artists and writers are buried daily except Thursday"). A similar round of emails celebrated the linguistic gaffes that resulted when American corporations introduced new slogans into foreign markets. In Mexico, for example, “Got Milk?” translated into the decidedly un-hip slogan, “Are You Lactating?”

No doubt this tradition of global mistranslation goes back to the days when Greek and Roman tourists frequented the sights of Anatolia and Egypt (one can imagine shaky Latin letters scrawled onto papyrus outside an Alexandria dry-cleaner: “Let us put happiness in your toga!"), but the modern practice of publicly butchering English can be traced back to the American occupation of post-war Japan in the 1940s and ‘50s. There, amidst the sudden rush to emulate all things Western, G.I.’s were able to buy tubes of “Snot” brand toothpaste, and the Japanese brass band that played at General MacArthur’s election reputedly commissioned a banner that read: “We pray for General MacArthur’s erection.” To this day, Japan still leads the world in mistranslated English (see Engrish.com for a splendid collection).

Other societies are rapidly catching up to the Japanese example, however, mainly in proportion to how fast they modernize. Korea, where I lived for two years as an English teacher in the late ‘90s ("Praise the Load!” read posters for my school’s Bible club), boasts a fine tradition of mangling the English language. Indeed, as both a Koreaphile and a former EFL educator, I didn’t know whether to be inspired or horrified in 2002, when the red-clad South Korean World Cup team stormed into the semifinals, and (according to news reports) 5 million soccer-crazed Koreans went out and bought T-shirts that exulted: “BE THE REDS!”

If there is a growth market in dodgy English, however, look no further than China, where one billion increasingly globalized citizens will soon start translating area signage into English in anticipation of the 2008 Olympics. Brian Baker, a fellow Kansas émigré who spent a year teaching English in China, once found the following tourist information posted in a Wuhan statue park:

1. The tourists must care for the statues, consciously avoid carving, writing, climbing, and damnification. Trying to be a civilized citizen.
2. The tourists climbing the statues must be fined from 5-50 yuan.
3. The tourists carving or scratching the statues must be fined from 50-500 yuan.
4. The tourists making a breakage for the statues’ instruments must be fined 1000-5000 yuan.
5. The tourists making a breakage for the second half of the statue must be fined 2000-8000 yuan.
6. The tourists making a breakage for the first half of the statue (without the face) must be charged 3000-10000 yuan.

One can imagine tourists sizing up such vandalism options with the kind of anticipation usually reserved for fine wine lists ("Ooh look, honey, let’s make a breakage for the statues’ instruments—it’s totally within our price range!").

Brian’s most vivid experience with Chinese English, however, came in a provincial grocery store. “There,” he reports, “between the Natural Powdered Jellyfish and the Yak Ham, I saw what looked, to my hungry eyes, to be a package of sliced turkey. Imagine my surprise when, upon closer inspection, the label clearly read: ‘CHOICE AROMATIC LION BUTT.’ I still can’t imagine what Chinese-English dictionary yielded that monstrosity of translation.”

The potential flip side to all this, of course, lies in the recent Western vogue for Chinese characters on clothing and skin art. As a case in point, I once bought a T-shirt that, according to the vendor, featured the Chinese symbol for “Lucky.” It wasn’t until months later that a Hong Kong friend informed me that it wasn’t even close to “Lucky”—that it really meant “Super.” Had it read “Dork,” or “Kick Me,” I would have been none the wiser. Similarly, all the hipsters who went out and got Chinese ideogram tattoos over the past decade could be in for a nasty surprise if they ever travel to China. After all, a “Crouching Tiger” buttock tattoo purchased in good faith in Seattle might eventually be revealed as provincial slang for “Impotent,” and a Melbourne tattoo artist who designs stylized “Freedom” ideograms might accidentally miss a stroke and send his clients off with a symbol that means, say, “Adult Diapers.”

Beneath the dangers of dabbling in other languages, of course, lies an optimistic truth: that, regardless of syntactic differences, the basic human meanings behind our languages remain the same. After all, “Sit and Smile” is indeed a desirable activity after having used toilet paper, and even the most diabolical of restauranteurs wouldn’t literally serve you fried rice with crap.

To be on the safe side, however, I think I’ll stick to the red curry and tom yam.

* * * * * *

Rolf Potts is the author of Vagabonding: An Uncommon Guide to the Art of Long-Term World Travel. He has written for National Geographic Traveler and Slate, among other publications. His last story for World Hum was Lost in Translation.

Photo courtesy of Kenji Yamada and Engrish.com.


WEBLOG CATEGORIES

Adventure Travel
Afghanistan
Air Travel
'Airworld'
Africa
Alaska
Albania
Antarctica
Architecture and Travel
Argentina
Asia
Audio/Video
Australia
Bali
Bookstore Tourism
Belize
Ben's Place of the Week
Bhutan
Bolivia
Botswana
Brazil
Brand That Nation!
Budget Travel
Burma
California
Cambodia
Canada
Caribbean
Celebrity Travel Watch
Chile
China
Colombia
Costa Rica
Cruising
Cuba
Denmark
Czech Republic
Dominican Republic
Dubai
Eco-Travel
Ecuador
England
Egypt
El Salvador
Estonia
Ethiopia
Europe
Family Travel
Fiji
Finland
Florida
Food: The Moveable Feast
France
Geography for Fun and Profit
Germany
Georgia
Global Village
Ghana
Greece
Greenland
Guatemala
Guest Blogger: Thomas Swick
Guest Blogger: Michael Shapiro
Haiti
Hawaii
History Travel
Holland
Honduras
Hong Kong
Hot Americans on Television Botching Geography Questions
Hotels
Iceland
Icons: Ernest Hemingway
Icons: Che Guevara
Icons: Jack Kerouac
Icons: Mark Twain
In the News
India
Indonesia
Iowa
Iraq
Iran
Ireland
Islands
Israel
Italy
Jamaica
Japan
Jordan
Kenya
Kosovo
Las Vegas
Latvia
Life of a Travel Writer
Lebanon
Libya
Literary Travel
Los Angeles
London
Malaysia
Mali
Media Addict
Mexico
Moldova
Mongolia
Morocco
Moscow
Movies and Travel
Music
Nation Branding
Nepal
New Orleans
New Travel Books
New York
New Zealand
9.11.01
Nicaragua
North America
North Korea
Norway
Outdoors
Page Turner
Pakistan
Paris
Peru
Planet Theme Park
Poland
Portugal
Puerto Rico
R.I.P.
Road Trips
Romania
Russia
San Diego
San Francisco
Saudi Arabia
Scotland
Shameless Self-Promotion
Shanghai
Shrinking Planet Statistic of the Week
Singapore
Somalia
South Africa
South America
South Korea
Space Travel
Spain
Suriname
Sweden
Switzerland
Syria
Taiwan
Tanzania
Technology and Travel
Thailand
The Critics
Thomas Swick on Travel Writing
Three Great Books
Three Travel Books
Tibet
Tokyo
Top 30 Travel Books
Train Travel
Travel and Security
Travel Disease du Jour
Travel Fashion
Travel Headline of the Day
Travel Lexicon
Travel Photography
Travel-Terror Fatigue Index
Travel Tips
Travel Writer Book Tours
Tres Loco
Turkey
Ukraine
United States
Venezuela
Vietnam
Voluntourism
War and Travel
Washington D.C.
What we Loved This Week
What Would Edward Abbey Think?
Where in the World Are You?
World Hum Travel Zeitgeist
Zambia