Searching for the Perfect Cup of Chai

Travel Blog  •  Eva Holland  •  01.30.08 | 10:43 AM ET

imageLast week’s post about eating patatas bravas in Washington D.C. made my mouth water—and it also got me thinking about those meals that I’ll always associate with a particular place and time. I inevitably come back from a trip with a new favorite food or drink, and just as inevitably my attempts to re-create it at home, whether in a local restaurant or my own kitchen, fail miserably. Case in point: my search for the perfect cup of chai.

Three years ago, in India, I fell in love with chai—the ubiquitous, sweet-and-spicy, milky tea served in shops, on street corners and aboard trains across the country. I drank it in darkened pre-dawn railway stations, paying three or four rupees (less than 10 cents) for each small clay cup, grateful to pause because I had no idea where to go or what to do next. I drank it with my hosts in handicraft shops, reluctantly, knowing I’d just committed myself to buying those beaded pillow cases. Best of all, I drank it with each meal I ate in the middle of the Thar Desert, on camel safari. Our guide would fill a dented pot and heat it on the fire, then toss handfuls of cloves and powdered milk and cardamom and sugar into the boiling water seemingly at random—the result, I had no doubt, was the best cup of tea I would ever drink.

In the years since, I have ransacked Ottawa in search of chai that at least comes close to matching those cups I drank in India. I’ve tried four of five brands of packaged chai tea bags. I’ve tasted the “chai latte” in every gourmet coffee chain in town. I’ve even tested out the loose-leaf chai from an overpriced tea shop in the touristy open-air market downtown. I’ve altered my milk-to-water ratio. I’ve increased my sugar quota. I’ve tossed in some extra cinnamon or powdered ginger. But no matter what I do, I never manage to re-create those early-morning moments in India.

When I really think about it, I suppose I wouldn’t want it any other way.

Related on World Hum:
* Audio Slide Show: Starbucks vs. the Traveler
* In Search of the Perfect Dumpling in Shanghai

Photo of chai ingredients by kk+ via Flickr (Creative Commons)


Eva Holland is co-editor of World Hum. She is a former associate editor at Up Here and Up Here Business magazines, and a contributor to Vela. She's based in Canada's Yukon territory.


11 Comments for Searching for the Perfect Cup of Chai

Jim Benning 01.30.08 | 11:51 AM ET

I know exactly how you feel, Eva. I’ve had the same experience with the café au lait I’ve enjoyed in France and the café con leche I downed every morning in Veracruz, Mexico.

Try as I might—and oh how I’ve tried—I can’t find or recreate them at home. But perhaps that’s as it should be.

Jen 01.30.08 | 2:12 PM ET

Try evaporated milk instead of powdered.

Jake 01.30.08 | 3:10 PM ET

I find most of the time it has less to do with the ingredients and more to do with the locale…

Jen 01.31.08 | 1:55 PM ET

oh I agree…but if I can get a taste close enough I have a bittersweet heightened memory of it…missing the original, but savoring how fun it was.

Could just be me though.

John D 02.01.08 | 5:46 PM ET

I agree with JIm Benning

evaporated milk is a great option and one I always use if possible.


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Shruti Bhutani 02.22.08 | 4:48 PM ET

Hey!! I absolutely loved ur piece because it was about Chai. My staple diet in India and something I miss here because there are no Chai-walas in DC. Nevertheless, you can make ur own Masala Chai.

to get that rich flavor of spices let the spices like cardamom, ginger, clove boil in water for 5 - 7 min. then add tea leaves (preferably CCT tea - the one that is processed and not the ones that are used to make tea- i.e. without mike and are actual leaves- u can get them form any Indian/ Pakistani store in your city ). Let it boil- for 1-2 min and lower the heat- then add milk till the desired lightness is achieved- best to make it with whole milk- wait for it to boil- (low heat)- and then after the first boil- remove from heat- and add sugar to ur taste!!

Ur cuppa tea it ready!! Enjoy!!

No Sugar No White Flour Dieting 03.04.08 | 9:58 AM ET

I’m kind of the opposite to you - I’ve only ever had store brand and commercially manufactured chai, and even though I enjoy it, I always think to myself ‘Man, I can imagine how much better and natural it would be in India’. I’ve gotta travel there one day

Chai Wallah 05.02.08 | 5:56 AM ET

More on Indian chai tea

bf2 hacks 07.28.08 | 11:58 PM ET

The picture at the top looks YUMMY lol

Helen Spice 08.22.08 | 1:05 PM ET

Very tasty black tea with star anise. Try it, you’ll enjoy

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