Sihanoukville, Cambodia: It’s the New Prague!
Travel Blog • Jim Benning • 01.12.06 | 1:14 PM ET
Okay, it’s not the new Prague. But Alexander Lobrano’s friend in Bangkok insisted that the Cambodian beach town of Sihanoukville was “the next Goa, the new Phi Phi,” the place to go for hipster bohemian backpackers in the know. So off Lobrano went to Sihanoukville, located a three-hour drive south of Phnom Penh. As he writes in the International Herald Tribune, he found a lovely beach town once popular with “Cambodia’s glamorous beau monde during the ‘60s,” a place where luxury hotels are on the rise and an airport runway is slated for lengthening and reinforcement.
Lobrano concluded that his friend in Bangkok just might be right. He has tips for visitors:
Sihanoukville is on the cusp, a deliciously laid-back place for a time out during heavy-duty Asian sightseeing. If you stay at the well-mannered Sokha Beach Hotel, catch the current scene by spending a day at Ochheuteal Beach. Lined with Berkeley, California-style bars, cafés and guesthouses, it has a happy, hippie funkiness along the lines of Goa and pulls a young international crowd out to have a good time on a small budget. Ochheuteal is also the best place to shop for a value-priced day of diving in and around the islands offshore.
Otherwise, do a day trip to Kep - locally famous for its seafood and especially its crabs; Kampot, known for its sleepy French colonial charm and pepper plantations, or atmospheric Bokor, an abandoned 1920s vintage casino and hill station.
Terry Ward 01.12.06 | 11:02 PM ET
Interesting. I have been to Sihanoukville, too, in 2004. Sure, the sunsets were nice. But my strongest impressions were those of total repulsion - the town seemed to be a popular destination for middle aged Western men who had come over from Thailand or flown in directly to prey on young boys and girls. Cambodia has a good reputation among pedophile tourists, thanks to government and police corruption and the abject poverty. I recall that the Sihanoukville tourist brochure, which could be found at all the hotels, had an ad on the back discourgaing pedophiles with the threat of an arrest, deporation and the reminder that, in many western countries, their crimes in Cambodia could be punishable at home. Judging from the men I saw ALL over town and on the beach flirting with young boys, driving them around on the back of their mopeds, treating them to a nice pizza dinner, etc., it wasn’t working. I recall watching one western man lure a Khmer boy to him on the beach with a toy. Luckily, a watchful local woman saw what was happening and rushed up to the boy to drag him away. Memories like these make it hard for me to remember Sihanoukville with sunny memories.
Jim 01.12.06 | 11:19 PM ET
Yikes, Terry. That’s awful. You weren’t there too long ago, either. I can only hope the place is changing. This story certainly didn’t reflect the experience you had.
Elizabeth 01.13.06 | 8:16 AM ET
I’ve been to Sihanoukville several times in recent months, have lived in Cambodia since July’05, and haven’t seen anything like what Terry mentioned.
It’s easy to misunderstand gestures between two strangers, and those ads on the back of tourist publications don’t help. Neither do alarmist statements such as the one above.
Many expats in S’ville and elsewhere have Khmer wives with children from previous marriages, they work with a children’s charity, perhaps they’re English teachers, or they’re helping out a friend. My [western] husband recently gave three boys a ride on his motorbike up and down a hill, because they were asking for a ride, chasing after him and laughing. As far as I know, he’s got no sexual proclivity for children.
Sure, there are occasionally tourists here with tendancies towards pedophilia. But the clientele are 90%+ Cambodian; there’s a market for it amongst locals, or it wouldn’t be available for tourists to exploit, as well.
I’ve spoken with dozens of expats who live in Sihanoukville. Many lament that the town is changing thanks to older western men from Pattaya coming in and setting up girlie (though not unclothed) dancing bars, but that’s about it.
Cambodia has known plenty of tragedy in the past, and there’s more to come before things get better here. There’s no need to conjure up any more.
Terry Ward 01.13.06 | 7:09 PM ET
Thanks for your response Elizabeth. I was glad to hear that your impressions were more favorable, and you have certainly been to the area more recently than me.
Please do not misundertand my comments as an attempt to conjure up more tragedy for Cambodia. I am not one to jump to extreme conclusions when traveling, however I am quite sure of what I saw in Cambodia. My impressions were confirmed for me by local hoteliers and aid workers in Phnom Penh. Sadly, the memories I described are my strongest from Sihanoukville.
I am encouraged that your experience was more positive.
Terry Ward 01.13.06 | 8:46 PM ET
An AP Article in the Taipei Times from March 29, 2004 quotes a UNICEF consultant:
The capital, Phnom Penh, beach town Sihanoukville and Siem Reap, site of the 9th-14th century Angkor temples, are “the main pedophile areas” because of the high number of foreign visitors, said Christian Guth, a consultant with UNICEF, the United Nations children’s agency.
Read the entire article at:
http://www.taipeitimes.com/News/world/archives/2004/03/29/2003108190
chris 05.24.06 | 5:07 PM ET
I think you are referring to Kep about 15 k down the road from S’ville. Its a nice place and there is a great little market where (mostly women) locals catch crap. S’ville is ok, but having been there I also didn’t get the vib that it was “sex tourist” central. I lived in PP for awhile and have traveled as a photographer all over SE Asia over the last few years. I like Cambodia, the people are great—my only fear is that these “hipster” travel writers seem to be writing about a fantasy version of Cambodia, something that doesn’t really exist (as of yet). Sure, its a fine place to visit, but get to know Cambodia, its history, its people and forget about lying on a beach and kicking back with a beer just so that you can say that ‘you’ve been there.” My two cents.
Chas 08.05.06 | 2:52 AM ET
I have been to Sihanoukville several times, including as long ago as 2004, and saw absolutely nothing like that described above. People, unfortunately, like to sensationalise.Sure there is an underage sex problem in Cambodia which has been reduced and driven underground by the government acting on foreign pressure. To claim you can see it openly on the beaches of Sihanoukville is nonsense. You might see foreign men with girls (or boys) aged , say, 16/17 on occasions, but that is not underage in Cambodia, or in most other places.
marklatham 09.21.06 | 7:52 AM ET
[EDIT] I was in snooky recently and there was none of this.
get a life mate.
remy 10.18.06 | 12:10 PM ET
i moved to sihanoukville from colorado,and it is the happiest i`ve ever been.who knows what`s up with neurotic westerners,whom i shun,but from the perspective of really knowing people here,not cordoned off at shitty resort hotels,it is a miraculous place.true generosity and kindness of a kind i`ve never encountered in living all over the u.s. and europe.even the tiniest help is so appreciated,it`s just miraculous….and that`s just the tip of it….
remy 10.18.06 | 12:40 PM ET
more pedophiles in the republican party than in cambodia
Sydan 11.23.06 | 2:24 AM ET
Hey guys, I’m going to visit there in
January, i’m going to be staying at orchidee guest house. I want to have a good time, is there anything i need to know or bring with me??? Let me know like my golf clubs and stuff like that…Is there like bars on the beach and how are they??? What’s the population like?? if you don’t mind repling that would be great…
Thanks
Sydan
elizabeth 11.28.06 | 8:09 AM ET
I think the Orchidee bills itself as the only guesthouse with a pool…at least last I remember.
Don’t know if the golf course is open yet - probably is by now. The best place to have your questions answered is probably on http://www.talesofasia.com .
Gordon’s in touch with travellers who’ve been all over S’ville.
Another informative forum is on http://www.khmer440.com .
http://www.travelfish.org has some guidebook-type information as well.
http://www.thorntree.lonelyplanet.com can have some good advice but is a more general forum than those listed above.
Have a great trip!
L. Craig, 03.20.08 | 5:16 PM ET
remy,
You are off base. You illustrate all Republicans as degenerates, this is simply an outrage. Some are normal, well, if you consider sitting in a toilet stall trolling for like minded adults, normal. Well, I guess you are right.