Interview With Paul Theroux: Invisible Man on a Ghost Train
Travel Interviews: Jim Benning asks the author of "Ghost Train to the Eastern Star" about his new book, aging and the challenge of disappearing in the age of the BlackBerry.
And yet, as a travel writer and editor, I like to think that one needn’t go to the Congo to write about the world in an interesting way, and that there are places in New York or Los Angeles that are equally interesting and perhaps even untouched to some degree by globalization.
I don’t disagree with you. In fact, I completely agree with you. But I think that you need a method. The United States can’t be written about like other countries. It should be written about. And there are plenty of places in the States that are never written about. Somewhere in the book—I think I was in India—I talked about how accessible India is. India possesses the accessible poor. You can go up to an Indian and ask how much he makes and meet his family, and the accessibility of people way down on the totem pole allows you to write about them. You can’t do that in the States. You can’t go to a small town in the heartland and write about them as though they were tribal people in Asad. You can’t do it.
My youngest son made a documentary in Jackson, Mississippi. I really admire him for it because I don’t know anyone who’s made a documentary or written a book about Jackson, Mississippi, particularly the inner city, the dangerous part of Jackson. You hear about Jackson—it’s the capital and everything’s fine. It’s not all fine. It’s dangerous and difficult and no one writes about it. I’d like to write that book, but I don’t know how to do it. I’d love to write a book about the States; I wouldn’t know how to approach it. But I agree with you when you say, You don’t have to go to the Congo. I totally agree. You should be able to write about anywhere. In fact, people do. But that’s why the travel book is an amorphous thing. No one knows what it is or what it stands for.
There’s a famous 18th-century book called A Journey Around My Room by Xavier de Maistre. There’s actually an edition with an introduction by D.H. Lawrence. You can write that. Thoreau wrote a book about his hometown. It’s a great book. He considered Concord, Massachusetts, the equivalent of Brazil. He even said when a man wrote a book about the Arctic that every observation made in that book about the Arctic could be made about Concord. It’s not true, but that’s what he thought. I’d like that to be the case.
A book that impressed me is Nickel and Dimed by Barbara Ehrenreich. I wish I’d thought of that. I really do. Of getting low-paying jobs and just traveling around the States and finding out how people live. It’s not a travel book, but it’s a book about America that penetrates it.
It seems that every other month some writer is declaring the death of travel writing. Do you read much travel writing these days? Do you read much of what is being published?
I don’t. I read books by my friends. Now and then if a book comes along that’s a real ordeal, I read it. I’m not looking for a well-written book. I’m looking for a book about something that appeals to me, an ordeal appeals to me, a place I’ve never been that’s written about in a penetrating way. I’m not looking for someone just joyriding or a stunt, someone riding a bicycle somewhere or whatever it is. But people used to talk about the death of the novel. That’s a kind of normal reaction to too much of something. But there will always be travel books, as long as there are places to go.
That sounds like a great place to end. Thanks very much.![]()
Photo by Yingyong Un-Anongrak.
Eva 08.18.08 | 11:43 PM ET
Great interview, Jim.
I loved Theroux’s quote about globalization, and the bit about “Go to Billings, Montana” - I used to argue with my British roommates all the time about whether there was actually “anything to see” in North America, because they felt they knew it all from TV, movies, etc. And I was like, I bet you’ve never seen Moose Factory, Ontario, on TV…
Also, the discussion about “A Journey Around My Room” reminded me of an essay that made the Best American anthology a few years back: “The Lonely Planet Guide to my Apartment.”
Sophie 08.19.08 | 12:46 PM ET
Wonderful and thought provoking. Thank you both.
In my travel writer-hack biz, the trip I got the most mileage out of sales-wise was Lubbock, Texas. I love going places other people don’t think about. Personally, I enjoy reading about Billings, Montana more than the Congo.
There are plenty of places between the U.S. coasts that are worth visiting, understanding and writing about. I could travel in the U.S. for the rest of my life and never get bored. I grew up in NYC but I’m in love with the flyover states.
JJ 08.21.08 | 9:54 AM ET
What about travel blogs? Being connected doesn’t make it natural to writeas you go, even in context?
Ketill 08.21.08 | 6:23 PM ET
This is one of the most interesting interviews with Theroux I have read. Years ago I and my wife tried to persuade him to come to Iceland. Unfortunately without success. Would be interesting if Theroux went to Scandinavia and the Nordic countries and wrote about it. Not much good travel writing about these countries the last 100 years or so.
Terry Ward 09.01.08 | 12:53 PM ET
To me, Theroux is the modern master of the genre. So cool to read this interview, Jim. I can’t wait to read his new book.
Timothy Smith 09.27.08 | 2:16 AM ET
One of the things that impresses me about Paul Theroux is his physical courage. I first got that impression when reading him on kayaking, in The Happy Isles of Oceania I believe it was. Not many writers, not many travel writers would be able to writea book such as Dark Star Safari. He alludes to this, as when praising his son, but I believe is too modest to talk much about it.
Physical courage often recedes with age. But apparently not with Theroux.