RECENT DISPATCHES
11.18.08
Six Degrees of Vietnam
Julia Ross went to Vietnam seeking relaxation and a place to recover from a breakup. She found a whole lot more. 10.16.08Another Tet Offensive
At a cafe in Nha Trang, Vietnam, in the midst of Chinese New Year celebrations, Joel Carillet worked up the courage to ask out his waitress ASK ROLFHow Can I Save on Transportation During a Round-the-World Trip?Vagabonding traveler Rolf Potts answers your questions about travel THE LIST
13 Great Travel Horror MoviesThe Hollywood horror archives are filled with tales of bad trips. To celebrate Halloween, Eva Holland and Eli Ellison sift through the carnage to pick their favorites—and lose a little sleep doing so. Q&AMatt Weiland: Through 50 States With 50 WritersThe coeditor of “State by State: A Panoramic Portrait of America” talks to Frank Bures about the book, the WPA and how the United States hasn’t been “bulldozed for speed” HOW TOLove Herring in SwedenFrom artery-clogging casseroles to a fermented concoction that smells alarmingly like vinegary flatulence, Lola Akinmade digs in to a smörgåsbord of herring and explains how to best appreciate Scandinavia’s favorite fish. BOOKS
The Water Is WideBronwen Dickey considers Tim Butcher’s “Blood River: A Journey to Africa’s Broken Heart,” which takes readers deep into the Congo SPEAKER'S CORNER
Vagrant Ruminations of a Compulsive TravelerWhere does the urge to hunt for that “fleeting fix of elsewhere” come from? Peter Wortsman recalls a life of travel inspiration. AUDIO SLIDESHOWNotes From an Unofficial Tourist GreeterSummer is over, and so is Julia Ross‘ season as an ambassador to travelers in Washington, D.C.’s Woodley Park neighborhood. She’s happy to be off duty. |
TRAVEL BLOG: Ask Rolf
How Can I Save on Transportation During a Round-the-World Trip?Vagabonding traveler Rolf Potts answers your questions about travel
I’m planning a round-the-world trip, but I worry about transportation costs once I start traveling. Ideally, I would like to travel to most places overland, exploring along the way. However, civil unrest, war and such make that virtually impossible. Any suggestions about how to get around these obstacles without resorting to expensive flights and spending too much money? -- Leah R.
Dear Leah, You bring up an interesting issue, since the difficulty of far-flung overland travel has always been (and always will be) an intoxicating challenge for long-term travelers. First off, I’ll commend you for choosing to explore the world overland. This may prove slow and difficult at times, but it’s the best way to truly see and experience the destinations you seek. Moreover, on a global scale, traveling overland is much more possible than you might think, despite the news you hear of wars and civil unrest. The fact is that wars and civil unrest have always been with us, and in comparative terms this is a rather easy point in history to travel the world overland. One reason many people think it’s not possible to travel long distances overland is our collective romantic memory of the Hippie Trail of the 1960s and ‘70s, when thousands of young people were able to journey from Istanbul to India—and points beyond—entirely by bus, train and hitching. This is still possible, actually, though wars in places like Afghanistan and red tape in places like Iran have made it more complicated. One should keep in mind, too, that Hippie-Trail-era wanderers had almost no access to Russia, Central Asia and China—places which are much more welcoming to overland travelers today. Since overland access is a constantly changing phenomenon, I encourage you to buttress whatever I tell you here with on-the-ground information, political and safety information from official sources, and up-to-date road reports from traveler message boards. In general terms, however, long-distance overland travel is often impeded less by wars and unrest than by regional bureaucracy and local government restrictions. Just because your map shows a road going from India to China, for example, doesn’t mean it’s going to be open to international travelers. In many cases, special permission is required for far-flung border crossings, which is why it’s important to collect local information as you travel. Good indie travel guidebooks will contain detailed border-crossing information, though this should be cross-referenced in-country, since conditions are always subject to change (both for better and for worse). In some parts of the world, such as North America, Europe and Australia, overland travel is not a problem (though, oddly enough, air travel in these places is often cheaper for long hauls than taking a train or bus). The countries of Central and South America (which I traveled by Land Rover in 2003-2004) are also quite accessible overland—though one should keep up to date on regional dangers, be aware of geographical roadless areas (such as the Darien Gap separating Panama and Colombia), and know that not all border crossings accept tourist traffic. Overlanding in Asia, Russia and the Middle East can be more complicated, since some border crossings (such as Israel-Lebanon) have been closed for decades, some countries (such as Myanmar) decree that you must exit from your port of entry, and other countries (such as Iran and Russia) require high fees or complicated red tape to enable an overland crossing. Still, Asia has abundant overland possibilities that are worth the time and effort. Finally, there’s Africa, where long-range overland travel is both notoriously difficult and strangely popular. Traveling overland from Cairo to Cape Town, for instance, can be a logistical nightmare, but it’s also a popular and classic route—a fact that Paul Theroux’s recent Dark Star Safari attests. Again, just stay aware of dangers, know that roads will be rough (or nonexistent), and use local and guidebook information to plan the best route. In short, keep three things in mind when considering overland travel. First, overlanding in most parts of the world is very doable, and while you might occasionally have to resort to air travel, even this shouldn’t be prohibitively expensive. Second, remember that overland travel is not always as simple and linear as it looks on a map, so you should be prepared to change your overland itinerary to accommodate red tape, official border crossings and existing travel infrastructure. And, finally, keep up to date on logistical, political and safety information as you travel, since all of these factors are subject to change on an overland journey.
Columnist Rolf Potts is the author of Vagabonding: An Uncommon Guide to the Art of Long-Term World Travel Has Rolf already answered your question? See the Ask Rolf archive. If not, send your questions to .
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How Should I Spend My Time in Spain?Vagabonding traveler Rolf Potts answers your questions about travel
I will be traveling to southern Spain and possibly Morocco. What is the best way to travel if we have five days for Seville, Tarifa, Tangiers and Granada? How would you distribute your time? --Joan, Alaska
Dear Joan, This might not be the answer you were looking for, but my advice would be to pick one town and spend all five days there. Better to have the relaxed, deliberate experience of one place than a rushed taste of four. Which place you choose is up to your own tastes (I’d personally go with Tangiers, since I’d reckon Morocco is grittier than the Spanish towns—but that’s just my own preference). In general, whether traveling to Spain or Suriname or Syria—for five days or five months or five years—it’s best not to be overambitious with your itinerary. This can be hard to do sometimes, since the world is huge and you naturally want to see as much as possible during your allotted travel time. The fact is, however, that you actually see less when you schedule many sights into a short amount of time. Trying to see Seville, Tarifa, Tangiers and Granada in five days is the perfect way to see almost nothing of any one destination—since most of your time will be spent in taxis, buses, ferries and hotel lobbies, rushing from one location to another. And even in one location, it’s hard to truly acclimate to a place in a single afternoon. That’s why the best way to see Spain is not to shuttle through several destinations in five days, but savor a single place for five days. Both your experience and your memories will be richer as a result.
Columnist Rolf Potts is the author of Vagabonding: An Uncommon Guide to the Art of Long-Term World Travel Has Rolf already answered your question? See the Ask Rolf archive. If not, send your questions to .
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As a Woman, Can I Really Travel Without Much Fear for my Safety?Vagabonding traveler Rolf Potts answers your questions about travel Dear Rolf,
I want to go backpacking for a year around the world, but as a woman, I’m always wondering how safe it is. Can I realistically jump on a plane now without too much fear for my safety? -- Sandrine, U.K.
Dear Sandrine, Traveling the world as a female shouldn’t be a problem. These days, women travelers go to the same places and do the same things on the road as their male counterparts. Not only is there a wide body of literature to prove this, but a cursory visit to any travel scene in the world will reveal similar numbers of male and female vagabonders. Despite this seeming equality, however, women do have a few unique challenges to confront as they travel from place to place. For example, most foreign streets are as safe or safer than the streets at home, but—as with home—you must be wary of where you wander. Use your guidebook and word of mouth to know which areas to avoid, and never walk alone at night. Always be alert and aware of your surroundings, especially at night. If you ever feel uncomfortable on your own in some part of the world, there’s always safety in numbers. Even as a solo traveler, it’s always easy to find temporary company in other travelers (male and female alike) should you feel the need. Just go to a local backpacker guesthouse and strike up a conversation. Odds are, you’ll find plenty of people headed in the same direction as you. Writer and world traveler Stephanie Elizondo Griest, whose recent book 100 Places Every Woman Should Go gives tips and inspiration for female travelers, asserts that women have distinct advantages as travelers. “I would argue that you are actually safer as a lone woman on the road than any man or group,” she told me in an email. “The reason: Women get looked after.” Stephanie goes on to say this:
Stephanie’s book has plenty of tips and travel suggestions for the woman wanderer. Here are five female-travel tips from my own book, Vagabonding: * Look and act confident, even when you aren’t. Don’t act lost (even when you are), and don’t stand in the street with your map out, since potential criminals and hustlers will take this as an invitation to “help” you. * When traveling alone, be cautious toward offers of hospitality, especially if the hospitality separates you from safe public areas. When in your hotel, make a habit of keeping your door locked at all times, and be suspicious if someone knocks on your door late at night. * The best way to avoid getting harassed in conservative cultures is to abide by the local dress code. Additionally, it never hurts to tone down your everyday courtesies on the road, since there are times when a friendly smile or a reflexive “thank you” will give men the wrong idea. If a man makes an unwanted pass at you, shoot him down firmly and unambiguously. If he persists or becomes aggressive (and especially if he tries to grope you), a loud, angry “NO!” will shame him by drawing public attention to his actions. Often, you can get rid of unwanted attention by mentioning that your big, strapping boyfriend is due to return any minute. Even if no such boyfriend exists, your harasser usually won’t stick around to meet him. * Most traveler scenes (and beach hangouts in particular) have plenty of local Casanovas who are ready and eager to sweep you off your feet with declarations of love. If you’re looking for a fling, fine. Just don’t let yourself get charmed and flattered into an uncomfortable situation. Tourist hustlers have their schemes down, so hang on to your wallet as well as your heart. * Most men in cultures around the world are honorable and respectful toward female travelers—but the few obnoxious exceptions will always stand out. Sooner or later, you will get harassed, so be ready to deflect the harassment with a no-nonsense attitude—and never let it get to you emotionally.
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How Do You Stay Fit When You’re Traveling?Vagabonding traveler Rolf Potts answers your questions about travel Dear Rolf,
How do you keep fit on the road? --Chris
Dear Chris, Believe it or not, travel itself keeps me fairly fit, since walking (sometimes with a backpack on my back) is my favorite way to experience a destination. For simple reasons of fitness, I advise all travelers to take advantage of walking, even when a bus or metro is an option. Not only will it make you fitter, it will show you parts of the city (or countryside) that you’d never see if you were always taking public transport. For cardio reasons, I also go running when I can—though I find that I rarely run more than three days a week on a journey. This is largely because I walk so much when I travel, but also because running takes a heavy toll on my laundry (that is, I don’t always have time to wash my running clothes two or three times a week). I am slightly lazy with laundry though, so if a given traveler doesn’t mind washing his or her running clothes in the sink every day or two, I’d say do it as much as you want. Just be aware of cultural norms, and try not to go running in places where bare legs and sweaty torsos will offend local mores or draw too much negative attention. Finally, when I’m traveling, I try to do the equivalent of a muscular strength or weight workout—usually a combination of push-ups, crunches and other simple exercises. For the past three years I’ve been traveling with a resistance band, which is a big rubber tube with handles on the ends. Resistance bands can be bought for about $12, and are easy to pack. There are many different kinds, but I just use the basic kind with handles on both ends. There’s a picture of one here—it’s the one called “Fit-Tube.” You can find it, or a similar band, at any sporting goods store. Here is my travel workout for six days a week (resting the seventh), alternating A-days and B-days. * A-Days: First, I combine push-ups, crunches and obliques—usually alternating three sets of crunches, three sets of left obliques and three sets of right obliques inside 10 sets of push-ups. Second, I do a set that combines shoulder and back work. Shoulders I work using the resistance band by standing in the middle of the band with my hands at my sides. Then I slowly raise my arms to shoulder-level against the resistance band. I do five sets of shoulder flys, alternating with four sets of back-raises (where I lie on my stomach, put my arms on my head, and lift my chest off the floor). Thirdly on A-days, I go for a run. * B-Days: Since I don’t run on B-Days, I do a little leg work first—squats and calf-raises. I typically don’t worry about weights—I just do a couple sets of very slow “air” squats (use the same body position as when you have weights; it still burns the thighs) alternated with a couple sets of slow calf-raises. Second, I do five sets of bicep curls and tricep work using the resistance band. Third, I do sets of on-my-back leg lifts, holding each for 10 seconds. That system works pretty well for me—even if I’m sometimes too tired or busy to be fully consistent on a day-to-day basis. I’d recommend these simple exercises—or a variant thereof—to anyone who is interested in basic fitness on the road.
Columnist Rolf Potts is the author of Vagabonding: An Uncommon Guide to the Art of Long-Term World Travel Has Rolf already answered your question? See the Ask Rolf archive. If not, send your questions to .
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Should I Quit Law School so I can Travel the World?Vagabonding traveler Rolf Potts answers your questions about travel Dear Rolf,
I recently spent a few months traveling in Thailand and Cambodia after finishing my undergrad degree. Now I am in law school, and all I can think about is how jaded I am with studying. I think constantly about selling my belongings and traveling the world, doing things my own way. What would you do in my position? --Brian, Texas
Dear Brian, What you’re feeling is a very common phenomenon, sometimes called “reentry,” that occurs after returning home from a long-term journey. During this time, fresh off your travel-high, you will have trouble settling in and reintegrating into a normal, home-based routine. Nothing will feel as fresh or exotic as it did during your travels, your old friends won’t relate to your amazing overseas experiences, and you’ll feel a strange sensation of homesickness for the road. Rest assured that this happens to everyone who’s recently spent lots of time traveling. So should you drop all, sell your belongings and start traveling again? I’d say maybe, if you feel that’s your calling—but definitely not yet. First, you need to give law school a chance. As part of this process, you should try to figure out if studying law in particular is causing your angst, or if trying to settle down in general is causing it. If law is truly not your calling, then you might consider studying something else. But if you determine that your current unease is just a matter of trying to restart a settled life, I’d advise you to go ahead and stick it out and train as a lawyer. After all, law expertise is a great skill to have, not only for scoring the kind of work that can fund future travels—but also for enabling travel itself. In addition to working at any number of global law offices overseas, a number of international volunteer and aid organizations (such as Global Citizens for Change) are looking for help from people with law expertise. For more information on international employment and volunteer opportunities for lawyers, check out Idealist.org, or peruse the links on the Public Service Abroad page at Marquette University Law School. Again, if law simply isn’t your calling, then by all means feel free to resume your travels or study something else. But if you really do have a passion for law, there’s no reason why you can’t combine this career with any manner of international experiences.
Columnist Rolf Potts is the author of Vagabonding: An Uncommon Guide to the Art of Long-Term World Travel Has Rolf already answered your question? See the Ask Rolf archive. If not, send your questions to .
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I Plan to Take My 9-Year-Old Daughter to Ecuador. Is it Safe? Any Tips?Vagabonding traveler Rolf Potts answers your questions about travel Dear Rolf,
-- Paul, Ontario, Canada
Dear Paul, I commend you on your plan to take your family around the world. I think that’s terrific, and I include resources for traveling with children in my travel-planning book, “Vagabonding.” Before I get to the specifics of Ecuador, I’d like to pass along some general advice from Sheila Scarborough, who writes the blog Family Travel. She emailed to suggest three factors family travelers should keep in mind:
As for the specifics of Ecuador, I think you should be able to take your daughter there and have a great two weeks. Just take the normal precautions (food, safety, etc.) that you would take in traveling with her in any American city, and you should do just fine. This part of the world is particularly family friendly, so this should afford you interactions with your hosts that you wouldn’t get if you were traveling alone. Just to be sure about my advice—and to provide you with some specific travel ideas for Ecuador—I contacted Texas vagabonder Hayden Brooks, who recently traveled around the world with his own young family. Here’s his advice for Ecuador:
Columnist Rolf Potts is the author of Vagabonding: An Uncommon Guide to the Art of Long-Term World Travel Has Rolf already answered your question? See the Ask Rolf archive. If not, send your questions to .
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Photo of Cuenca, Ecuador on TravelChannel.com by heldr via Flickr, (Creative Commons). I’m Worried About Food Safety Overseas. Any Tips for Staying Healthy?Vagabonding traveler Rolf Potts answers your questions about travel Dear Rolf,
-- Maria, Abbotsford, British Columbia
Dear Maria, As someone who lived in different parts Asia for over seven years, I can assure you that travel in the developing world need not be an ongoing bellyache—but only if you can keep a few simple considerations in mind. When you first start traveling, for example, don’t react to strange foods or unorthodox routines by under-eating. Regardless of your food preferences (such as vegetarianism), make sure you maintain a balanced diet, with lots of fruits, vegetables, grains and protein. If you aren’t too daring in the culinary department—or if you think you’ll disagree with the food in certain areas—bring along vitamin supplements. Remember to stay hydrated and habitually wash your hands before meals. When eating at restaurants and food stands, look for establishments with lots of customers (always a sure sign of tasty eats) and healthy-looking employees. Make sure that any meat you order is well cooked when you’re in less-developed countries—and be wary of milk (which may not be pasteurized), “beef” (which may not be beef), leafy salads (which likely haven’t been washed with purified water) and shellfish. As far as personal food preparation goes, an old colonial slogan that still makes a useful starting point is, “If you can cook it, boil it, or peel it, you can eat it—otherwise, forget it.” Non-purified water (ice included) should generally be avoided—and be sure to check your bottled water for a broken seal (which often means that the bottle has been fished out of the trash and refilled with tap water). Also consider using bottled water when washing food or brushing your teeth. Finally, don’t be afraid to indulge in “American” food from time to time—but keep in mind that a restaurant isn’t necessarily healthy (or clean, or tasty) merely because it has an English-language menu and serves pizza, club sandwiches or an “American” breakfast. In Pushkar, India, I once ate lunch at a restaurant that “specialized” in Indian, Mexican, Chinese, Italian, Greek and Israeli food—and I find it no small coincidence that I suffered stomach problems quite soon after.
Has Rolf already answered your question? See the Ask Rolf archive. If not, send your questions to .
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Chinese food photo on TravelChannel.com by eatmeatnow via Flickr, (Creative Commons). For a Beach Vacation, Should I Go All the Way to Bali or the Maldives When Hawaii Would Do?Vagabonding traveler Rolf Potts answers your questions about travel Dear Rolf,
-- Ann, Michigan
Dear Ann, Your query brings up an interesting issue when it comes to beach travel: If you are just looking for some sun, sand and surf, does it matter where in the world you travel? How you answer that question depends on how you approach your travels. If the impetus for your travels is luxury comfort—be it in the Four Seasons or any nice hotel—geography is less of an issue than the hotel itself. And, considering that the amenities of five-star hotels don’t differ that much around the world, it might not be worth it to travel all the way to the Maldives if beachfront luxury is all you’re after. This in mind, it would be much cheaper to just journey to the Dominican Republic, say—or Mexico, or Belize, or Grenada or any number of beautiful beach-destinations that are closer to the United States. Of course, I condone a completely different approach to beach travel—one that will make it worth your while to travel all the way to places like Bali and the Maldives. If your experience in Bali didn’t seem all that much different than your experience in Hawaii, that probably means you were spending too much time in the hotel and not enough time in the local culture. After all, Bali is home to a fascinating syncretistic Hindu tradition, whereas Hawaii boasts a proud, globalized Polynesian culture. An engaged experience of either society is far more rewarding to your journey than any creature comforts a hotel might offer. So if beautiful beaches are what inspire you to travel to faraway places, I would give the five-star comfort a miss and stay in a boutique “mom-’n’-pop” resort or an inexpensive beach hut. This can be difficult, though not impossible, in the Maldives (which has developed its tourist industry with upscale visitors in mind)—but it’s worth the effort. That way, in a less insulating (and slightly less luxurious) environment, you can enjoy beaches while soaking in the culture. In the Maldives, you’re likely to find a gentle, laid-back Islamic society—which will be fun to compare with the Muslim societies of coastal Tanzania (where great beaches abound), should you choose to travel there the following year. Likewise, the Hindu culture you experience along the stunning beaches of Bali might make an interesting contrast should you one day meet local Hindus along the stunning beaches of Trinidad. My point, I guess, is that beautiful beaches are in no short supply around the world—but unless you travel into the societies that are connected to those beaches, you’re going to be selling your travel experience short. If you’re used to resort hotels and find the notion of independent travel daunting, don’t worry. These days, even mom-’n’-pop resorts and inexpensive beach accommodations can be researched in advance. A good place to start is in an indie travel guidebook (such as Lonely Planet, Rough Guides or Moon) to the destination that interests you. Just cross-reference the cheaper and mid-range accommodation listings with some Internet research, and odds are you’ll be able to find dependable, comfortable lodging that doesn’t isolate you from the country in the process.
Columnist Rolf Potts is the author of Vagabonding: An Uncommon Guide to the Art of Long-Term World Travel Has Rolf has already answered your question? See the Ask Rolf archive. If not, send your questions to .
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Would Working Abroad Enhance my Travel Experience or Slow me Down?Vagabonding traveler Rolf Potts answers your questions about travel Dear Rolf,
--Aaron, England
Dear Aaron, Finding work as you travel will definitely slow you down—and that’s exactly how you can see a place thoroughly. A short-term job is in fact a great way to “mix it up” on a long-term journey, and have the kinds of experiences you’d never have as a here-today-gone-tomorrow tourist. Stopping to work from time to time can also earn you a little extra money for your travel-fund—or at least ensure that you’ll be breaking even for a spell. Interestingly, one of the best benefits on-the-road work has to offer a long-term traveler is the opportunity to be frustrated. For example, I was occasionally frustrated when I worked a short stint as a bar tout in Jerusalem several years ago—but the experience allowed me to see the city (and the tourists who visit) in a whole new way. And no tourist visit to Korea could have compared to the two years I spent teaching English in Busan. I wasn’t always happy working long hours in that unfamiliar and competitive society, but my work experience taught me things about the culture I might never have learned otherwise. So, should your long-term travel experience last six months or more, definitely plan on stopping to work (and experience a single location deeply) at some point. Overseas work opportunities range from farm labor to hospitality work to teaching, and can be found as you go or planned in advance. Regardless of whether you plan specifics in advance, it’s a good idea to research the work opportunities out there. Transitions Abroad maintains a fantastic listing of work-related resources, and Susan Griffith’s book Work Your Way Around the World is another useful resource. Elsewhere, Backdoorjobs.com and Frontier Club are worth a look. Overseas volunteering, which I wrote about in an earlier column, is another activity that can enrich a long-term journey.
Columnist Rolf Potts is the author of Vagabonding: An Uncommon Guide to the Art of Long-Term World Travel Has Rolf has already answered your question? See the Ask Rolf archive. If not, send your questions to .
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On a ‘Round-the-World Trip, Should I Travel Alone or With a Companion?Vagabonding traveler Rolf Potts answers your questions about travel Dear Rolf,
--Bret, Dayton, OH
Dear Bret, There is no universal answer to the “solo vs. companion” question, since it’s ultimately a matter of personal preference. I’ve traveled both ways and found them enjoyable. For my first vagabonding trip (eight months around North America), traveling with friends allowed me to share the challenges and triumphs of travel, and—in splitting costs—helped me save money. The team dynamic also made it easier to overcome my anxieties and hit the road in the first place. All of my ensuing vagabonding journeys, however, have been solo, which I’ve found is a great way to immerse myself in my surroundings. Without a partner, I have complete independence, which inspires me to meet people and find experiences that I normally wouldn’t have sought. Plus, going solo is never a strict modus operandi for me: Whenever I tire of solitude, it’s always easy to hook up with other travelers for a few days or weeks as I go. If you’d prefer to go with a partner from the outset, be sure to choose your company wisely. Make certain that you share similar goals and ideas in regard to how you want to travel. If your idea of a constructive afternoon in Cambodia is, say, identifying flora on the jungle floor, you probably shouldn’t pick a partner who’d prefer a seedy bar and a half-dozen hookers. If possible, go on short road trips with your potential partner before you go vagabonding together; it’s amazing what you can learn about your compatibility in just a couple days. Avoid compulsive whiners, chronic pessimists, mindless bleeding-hearts and self-conscious hipsters—since these kind of people (who are surprisingly common along the travel trail) have a way of turning travel into a tiresome farce. Instead, find a partner who exudes an attitude of realism and open-mindedness, since these are the virtues you yourself will want to cultivate. Regardless of how compatible you are with your companion—even if your companion is a lover, sibling, or spouse—make no illusions about spending every moment together. Perfect harmony on the road is a pipe dream, so always allow your partnership room to breathe—even if this means amicably splitting up for weeks at a time. Thus, in your mental as well as your practical preparations, always be ready to go it alone—even if you don’t think you’ll have to. If you don’t have anyone in your circle of friends who is up for traveling the world with you, there are a number of Web sites that allow you to find travel companions online, including Bootsnall.com’s Travel Buddies page, Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree forum, HospitalityClub.org’s Travel Companions page, and Travel-Companion.net. Naturally, all commonsense rules of caution and compatibility apply when finding a travel buddy online. On a final note, I’ll cast my personal vote for going solo, even if this prospect seems daunting at first. If you aren’t used to the notion of traveling alone, you might plan a few short, solo weekend or holiday mini-trips to get used to it. Though it might feel a tad lonely or strange at first, I think you’ll discover that it’s a great way to travel—always full of possibility, flexibility and openness to new experiences.
Columnist Rolf Potts is the author of Vagabonding: An Uncommon Guide to the Art of Long-Term World Travel Send your questions to . If you want to know whether Rolf has already answered your questions, see the Ask Rolf archive.
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Can I Have Meaningful Experiences Abroad if I Don’t Speak the Language?Vagabonding traveler Rolf Potts answers your questions about travel Dear Rolf,
--Lori, Santa Fe, New Mexico
Dear Lori, I get this question a lot, and I always encourage people to travel, regardless of their language abilities. I should know, since I am not naturally good at languages myself—and had I waited to learn languages before I traveled abroad I never would have hit the road in the first place. Fortunately for all of us who are slow at learning languages, a big advantage of 21st century travel is that English has become the lingua franca for much of the world. Even if you don’t always find fluent speakers in far-off lands, you can usually find locals (often students) who know a few phrases of English. When speaking English to non-fluent listeners, remember that loudness is not what will make you understood. Rather, you should make an effort to speak slowly, simply and clearly. And, when listening to non-fluent English, be patient and try to figure out mispronounced words from the context of what is being said. Keep in mind that many people know English only from study dictionaries—not spoken and heard conversation—and thus might not know how to sound words correctly. Try to develop an ear for imperfect “Tarzan English”—and keep in mind that it’s probably much clearer than your “Tarzan” rendering of the local tongue. Compliment anyone brave (and helpful) enough to try his or her English on you, and try to develop a knack for cross-cultural small talk (which involves simple topics that everyone can relate to—such as family, food, hobbies and love-life/marital status). Pocket language guides, which can be found in most any bookstore travel section, can also be good for cross-cultural communication. At times you can have entire (albeit slow) conversations just by flipping through the pages of your phrasebook. And, regardless of your adeptness at picking up new languages, it’s never too hard to commit a few words and phrases of the local language to memory. Lazy afternoons or long bus rides are a good opportunity to begin your memorization. Good starting phrases include: “Hello,” “please” and “thank you”; “yes” and “no”; the numbers 1-10, plus 100 and 1000; “How much?”; “Where is it?”; and “no problem!” Additional useful words to translate are “hotel,” “bus station,” “restaurant,” “toilet,” “good,” “bad” and “beer.” Any local idioms and slang you pick up will delight locals (just so long as you aren’t learning something profane or offensive). And, of course, improvised sign language and face pulling can go a long way toward getting your point across. Regardless of whether you try verbal or visual communication, your efforts will invariably provoke lots of laughter—so be ready to laugh along!
Columnist Rolf Potts is the author of Vagabonding: An Uncommon Guide to the Art of Long-Term World Travel Send your questions to . If you want to know whether Rolf has already answered your questions, see the Ask Rolf archive.
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Should I Cut My Dreadlocks Before Traveling to Asia?Vagabonding traveler Rolf Potts answers your questions about travel Dear Rolf,
--Melissa, Australia
Dear Melissa, Southeast Asia has been a popular destination for young indie travelers since the days of the Hippie Trail, so you certainly wouldn’t be the first person on the travel circuit to show up wearing deadlocks. That said, however, I recommend adopting a different hairstyle before you head to Southeast Asia. This is because local hosts will tend to see your dreads instead of seeing you—thus compromising your social possibilities as you travel from place to place. In countries like Australia or the United States, cutting your dreads to appease the first-impression whims of strangers might sound kind of lame, but on the road, as you continually travel to new places and meet local people, you are somewhat beholden to the first impression you project. In many popular Southeast Asian stop-offs (such as Koh Phangan, Thailand or Vang Vieng, Laos) local hosts will be used to seeing dreadlocks and it won’t be a problem. But just as bus tourists in Paris should challenge themselves to stray from the Louvre and the Champs Elysees, you’re going to want to wander off the comfortable haunts of the backpacker trail. And in off-the-beaten-path parts of Southeast Asia—where bathing is an obsessive virtue, to a far greater extent than in the West—local hosts will see your dreadlocks as a sign of dirtiness, and hence they will be less likely to invite you into their conversations and homes. Granted, your dreads might be perfectly clean, but first impressions are first impressions. While writing Vagabonding I lived in a residential hotel in southern Thailand, and I saw the subtle discomfort with which Thais regarded Western backpackers who seemed less than clean (dreads included). So, unless you want to risk limiting local interactions to the Westernized Southeast Asians of the backpacker trail, you might consider losing the dreads. This is something you can do without resorting to a shaved head (see here and here for ideas on combing out dreads). Will your dreads hinder you at customs checks? Sometimes they will, since customs officers in Southeast Asia (as well as other parts of the world) often see dreads as a shorthand indicator of drug use. But as long as you aren’t carrying drugs, this fact will at worst just slow you down. As for looking modest and unremarkable should you keep your dreads, I would just buy a headscarf as soon as you get to Indonesia or Malaysia. These are both Muslim-majority countries, so there should be plenty of fashionable head coverings to choose from. Not only will these headscarves honor conservative local customs, but they usually look pretty cool, too. Then, as you travel to other parts of Southeast Asia, you can wrap your hair in the scarf whenever you think the dreads might be an issue. In general, dressing in local fashions is an easy way to appease local cultural norms (you will never fully blend in, of course, but the gesture is usually appreciated). Most good guidebooks will have country-specific cultural pointers on modest dress and general appearance, and it’s a good idea read these chapters, even if you don’t plan on following them word for word. So, in short: Dreadlocks won’t likely be a huge problem as you travel in Southeast Asia, but you might consider cutting them (or covering them) to expand your social possibilities on the road.
Columnist Rolf Potts is the author of Vagabonding: An Uncommon Guide to the Art of Long-Term World Travel Send your questions to . If you want to know whether Rolf has already answered your questions, see the Ask Rolf archive.
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