To report his inspired profile of Rory Stewart in the latest issue of National Geographic Adventure, Paul Kvinta ventured where few Western travelers are going these days: Kabul, Afghanistan. Stewart, the author of the books The Prince of the Marshes and The Places in Between, now leads a nongovernmental organization in Kabul called the Turquoise Mountain Foundation, which is working to save the Old City. His exploits as a writer—“Places” is based on Stewart’s solo walk across Afghanistan—and, as Kvinta writes, his “significant clout and talents” have enabled him not only to help focus the world’s attention on Kabul, but put him in a position to affect real change in the country. 

Kvinta’s profile goes a long way in revealing Stewart’s life and work, as well as his deep knowledge of the country. Take this heart-stopping anecdote from his walk with Stewart along Kabul’s Old City wall:

Stewart powers ahead of us, loping up the ridge like a mountain goat, pausing only once to shout back instructions for us to stay on the north side of the wall. The south side is mined. At one point Aaron Huey, a photographer with us, hangs back by himself to shoot some pictures. Out of nowhere, three young men approach him. Loaded down with camera gear and unnerved by the strangers, Huey calls out for assistance. Stewart comes trotting back and immediately engages the men in Dari. Reaching for each of their hands, he says to the first, “Salaam aleikum—Peace be with you,” to the second, “Jor bashi—May your body prosper,” and to the third, “Manda na bashi—May you not be tired.” The men look at Stewart and then at each other, perplexed. Slowly, they respond in Dari, “Prosperity to you,” and “My body is strong. Is your body strong?” and “Long life to you.” They aren’t sure what to make of Stewart. He’s much too pale to be Afghan. They begin rifling questions at him.

“Where are you from?”

“Are you a Muslim?”

“Why do you speak such good Dari?”

“Thank you,” Stewart says graciously, “but I’m afraid I don’t speak good Dari. I am from Scotland, and I am Christian, not Muslim.”

The three are still trying to digest this last remark when Stewart adds, “I am a follower of Jesus, whom the Koran considers a great prophet. May God’s blessings be upon you.” The men nod. “And to you too,” they respond. Having disarmed them, Stewart takes his leave with Huey in tow.

After reading the nearly 9,000-word piece in one sitting earlier this month, I wanted to know more, specifically about Kvinta’s experiences in Afghanistan. I e-mailed Kvinta, who responded from England.

World Hum: In the U.S., it seems the main impressions people have of Afghanistan come from the images of war and perhaps Rory’s book. What were your general impressions of Afghanistan before you went, and what are they now?

Paul Kvinta: Given the nature of Rory’s project, I spent almost all of my time in Kabul, so I can really only talk about that city. That’s unfortunate because from all accounts the Afghan countryside is stunningly beautiful. Before my trip I thought of Kabul as a bombed out place still reeling from 25 years of war. Having been there, I’d say that’s still the case. I saw the impact of war everywhere—ruined buildings, ISAF soldiers, armed guards, many extremely poor people. The city has no functioning sewage system or dependable electricity.

But Kabul is also a bustling, vibrant city. People are out in the streets, there’s a building boom on, the markets are lively. I found people to be very friendly and eager to talk. No one seemed to mind that I was from the U.S. I’m told that folks were much more optimistic after the U.S. booted the Taliban, that a malaise has set in with the continuing insurgency and government corruption. People did express a certain pessimism to me about what lies ahead. Still, my impressions after the trip are of a very friendly and proud people negotiating a transforming city and an uncertain future.

The U.S. State Department “continues to strongly warn U.S. citizens against travel to Afghanistan.” How dangerous of a place do you think it is it for a traveler, particularly one who isn’t traveling with Rory Stewart?

Being with Rory did give me a level of confidence that might be unrealistic, but I personally didn’t find the city all that dangerous. I had no frightening moments having to do with security. There are a handful of bars and restaurants that are really hopping at night and full of Westerners (admittedly, at least one of them makes you check your gun at the door). Now, people will debate the point with you. Many of the folks working for NGOs and foreign embassies have restrictions on where they can go and what they can do. One day the head of USAID was supposed to come visit Rory in the fort, but his security for some reason postponed the visit. When I was in Kabul there hadn’t been any attacks in the city for months, but the situation remains in flux. Last week a suicide bomber killed a fair number of people in Kabul. And outside of the city, especially to the south and east, I’d say all bets are off. An active war is taking place.

I had one unnerving moment, but it had nothing to do with security per se. I was trying to get into a Shia mosque during Ashura, the day when Shia commemorate the death of Hussein Ali, the grandson of Muhammad. I wanted to see the bloody self flagellation ritual that men engage in to connect themselves with Hussein’s suffering. I had to walk through this long hall that was so packed with people my body was literally lifted off the ground. At one point I was pressed against a wall and couldn’t move. I thought about all those people who get stampeded to death each year during the pilgrimage to Mecca, because of the lack of crowd control. I was finally spun through the crowd and spat out into the courtyard where I started from, no worse for the wear. I later got into the mosque through a back entrance.

What else made an impression on you in Afghanistan? What did you like most?

The situation for women made a big impression on me. From a Western point of view it’s still pretty bleak. In Kabul women go to work and school and carry on with their lives, but they’re still nowhere close to being equal with men. And you still see a lot of burkas in Kabul. On my one trip out of Kabul, to the village of Istilif north of the city, I only saw two women, both in burkas. I was told that it’s frowned upon for women in the village to go out in public at all.

The other thing that made an impression is the incredible hospitality. It’s an exalted cultural value in Afghanistan. It was impossible to visit or interview anyone without an amazing spread of food and drink being laid out before me. This is what I liked best about Afghanistan.

I experienced an interesting situation that illustrates both of the above—the role of women, hospitality—quite well. One evening I went to the home of the editor of a prominent newspaper. He got hung up at work, so I arrived before he did. His wife sheepishly invited me in and showed me to a room where I took a seat on the floor, as is the custom. I never saw her again. There was a three-year-old girl and a five-year-old boy playing a video game in the room. They noticed me but kept playing. Then an eight-year-old boy entered the room carrying a big tray of tea and snacks for me. He served me and then began playing with his siblings. After a while we were all rolling around on the floor together, having a fun time. But every now and then their mother would call for the eldest boy, and he’d go out and then return with more food and drink for me. She was hosting me through the boy. When the father finally arrived, the kids left the room, and the eight-year-old served us an elaborate meal that his mother had prepared. I found all of these dynamics quite extraordinary.

What’s next on your traveling/writing plate? Where can we look for you next story?

I recently got back from the Columbia River Gorge in Oregon. It’s a beautiful place. I was there to report a piece for NG Adventure on sea lions, salmon, dams and fishermen. It’s a tragi-comic situation about nature being completely out of balance. This is a typical theme in my work. I enjoyed the Rory assignment immensely, but it was a bit of a departure for me thematically.

Thanks, Paul.

Related on World Hum:
* Recalling Afghanistan and a Father’s Wanderlust
* Rory Stewart on Afghanistan: ‘The Problem is That We Act on the Basis of Our Own Lies’
* ‘Naked Tourist,’ ‘The Places in Between’ in the New York Times

Photo of Kabul by Spangleddrongo via Flickr, (Creative Commons).